The Trouble With Dreams

A few weeks ago, I experienced a dream that acutely tapped into dormant senses. It involved my father, again, embracing me, again. As he gave me a big bear hug, my head nuzzled tightly into his neck, the musky odour I associated with him from childhood manifested the air. I woke up immediately believing him to be in the room with me. And that's the trouble with dreams; their denial of reality a reminder of how disquieting life can be in comparison. 


As the date of October 26 nears, I've been thinking about how surreal the annum has been. This date - this godforsaken date of wretched despair - is the first commemoration of the worst year of my life. On this date twelve months ago, I was awakened by Monty gallivanting through my condo after returning from an early morning walk with my father who was in town on one of his monthly visits. As I opened my bedroom door, reaching out to take away a squeak toy and playfully scold the furry beast for disturbing my peace, I heard my father ask "are you up?"

At the time, I thought this was strange. Normally he'd be sitting on my couch watching British comedies on a channel I subscribed to primarily for his entertainment. Conversations would surround the long drive in from Winnipeg and the terrible drivers that plague Saskatchewan roads. As per routine, he'd then inquire what I wanted for breakfast. He always had a McDonalds coffee and fruit-and-fiber muffin. The exact change to purchase such lined up on his dresser the evening prior. "Are you up?" seemed like it had an obvious answer; superfluous small talk that didn't need to happen between two people well familiar with each other's habits. I only had about three seconds to ponder this though. When I looked up at my father's face to respond, I could see tears stream down his cheeks.

The first hit. Wounded. 

Then, through a cracked voice that was barely audible, "I have cancer and I have less than a year to live".

The second hit. Fatal. 

He pulled me close and gave me a bear hug, my head nuzzled tightly into his neck where I could feel his tears stream down his face onto mine. 

My father after his first round of radiation (hair loss at treatment site visible in picture at left)

My father after his first round of radiation (hair loss at treatment site visible in picture at left)


Two nights ago, I dreamt of my father again. I can't remember the full context of the narrative, I only recall his voice and the words of wisdom he was passing on. Mirroring my awakened state, I was depressed. Lost. Seeking deeper meaning and a glimpse of nirvana, even if superficial or fleeting. His response was "don't worry. Go ahead and do it."

I awoke.

Do what? 

This advice can pertain to way too many things going on right now, many of which require more substantial therapy than a well-meaning reminder quoting a Bobby McFerrin song. If he's trying to counsel through my subconscious, my father is going to have to be less vague, I thought to myself as I reached for my iPad at 3:23am. 

If there's an upside to insomnia, it's being forced to glimpse a side of the world that one forgets about during regular business hours. In my case, I read Japanese blogs as these are the only ones routinely updated with new content while my timezone – 15 hours behind Tokyo – is in deep REM. I appreciate the attention to detail that is placed on all facets of the culture from art and design to various social graces. Even something as mundane as drinking a latté has been turned into a magical experience, however superficial and fleeting.  

I've been in the early stages of planning a trip to the country since my father died on July 3. In his final weeks, I promised him I would climb Mt. Fuji on his birthday in 2015. I'm not sure why exactly. I just kinda randomly threw it out there. I think I was looking for a grandiose way to express how special he is to me and that I would never, ever forget it using the date as a way to commemorate this love every year eternal.

I resisted booking a ticket though. Mt. Ontake had just erupted, leaving dozens killed. There are predictions that Fuji may do the same. I'm also in shit shape with no motivation whatsoever to better myself. Wheezing up a mountain for two days would probably kill me if lava and ashes didn't. I decided to check aircanada.com though, to see if there was any fluctuation from the $2300.00 single round-trip ticket price that had been listed. 

There was. A thousand dollar difference actually. 

My father, famous for frugality, may have nudged me at that exact moment to "go ahead and do it". To book that ticket. I did. 

I believe what he was really telling me though was "don't worry. Just live."

My dad with two Harajuku girls in Tokyo (2009).

My dad with two Harajuku girls in Tokyo (2009).

In an Octopus's Garden in Tokyo

My first night in Shinjuku, jetlagged and lost in translation, I went to the 7-11 at the corner of the block to get something to eat. 7-11s in Japan are slightly different from the model in North America. As few homes in metro Tokyo have space for a traditional kitchen, they act as neighborhood grocers with plenty of take-out food options ranging from traditional Japanese to Italian dishes, not just stacks of Doritos and vats of flavoured slush (although you could get those too if homesick). Combing the aisles and endless options, I found something that resembled the stir-fry consisting of chicken, noodles, vegetables and teriyaki sauce that I love to order at Palatal Mongolian Grill in Winnipeg. Of course, this is what I thought it was as everything was written in traditional Japanese characters and I couldn't read a darn thing. I was tired. It was food. I heated it up in the microwave and was on my merry way. Many of my nights end this way. Sadly and regrettably. 

Shinjuku is my favorite part of the megalopolis known as Tokyo. Known as the "red light" district of the city, it is located next to the downtown core where many, many suits and their briefcases spend long hours strengthening the country's GDP only to spend their evenings playing pachinko! and openly purchasing anime porn. Besides this, Shinjuku is also known for having every square inch of building space lit up in the glow of neon lights. When advertising agencies or music video directors need a futuristic, hip vision that could be earth or could be a newly found planet in an alternate universe, this is where they go.  

Anyway, back at the hotel I turned on the wonderfully weird world of Japanese TV and dug into my meal with a set of plastic utensils that I brought from home. I cannot, no matter how hard I try, ever get the hang of chopsticks. The first few bites of my entrée went down well. They were tasty and flavorful...and mostly noodles. Then I started to encounter a few crunchy bits. "Odd", I thought to myself. "Perhaps they didn't get all the bones out of the chicken?"

I continued eating and watching TV, not paying attention to my plate. The crunchy bits remained (I just spit them out) but then I bit into something that actually adhered itself to one of my teeth. Not between my teeth, mind you...on my tooth. Making my way to the bathroom mirror to investigate, I was grossed out by what I saw: a grayish thing suctioned to one of my incisors. I got it off and immediately went back to see what my dinner actually consisted of.  

It was the first and last time I ate octopus. 

Shinjuku by day: 

Shinjuku by night: 

To view more images of Japan, click here.  

Planet of the Apes

I realize that I never did finish my Japan travelogue. Amidst moving to another province and starting a new job, a few things got lost in the shuffle including my Led Zeppelin IV original LP, my beloved Mickey Mouse pajamas and my mind. And it's a damn shame because I really love 'Stairway to Heaven'. Anyway, I was just getting to the best part of my excursion to the land of the rising sun - Hiroshima and Miyajima Island, home to hundreds of feces-flinging wild monkeys. Duck!!!

If I didn't realize it before, the train ride from Tokyo to Hiroshima definitely made me understand just how dense the population of Japan is; the entire island is just one MASSIVE megalopolis with Tokyo blending into Osaka, Osaka blending into Kobe...and everything meeting at land's end in Hiroshima. The contrast between it and Saskatchewan, the definition of wide open space, was like polar opposites. This is why Harajuku Girls exist...because it's easy to get lost in the sea of humanity. If I were to emulate their wicked style here in Saskatoon, I would be committed. Simply having all my teeth here is enough to stand out. I keed. I keed. 

Downtown Hiroshima: 

My first impression upon arriving at Hiroshima was that it was a working class, accessible alternative to the technological glitz and glamour that exists elsewhere in the country. More 20th century as opposed to the year 3000 ambitions of other Japanese locales. The city's tragic history could not be ignored though; a permanent calm hanging in the air was a blaring reminder of the horrific, world-altering events that transpired on August 6, 1945. Admittedly, Peace Park and the Peace Memorial Museum were the reasons for my visit. They are the main things that every tourist wants to see. It is twisted that a place with so much palpable sadness is a tourist destination, but I am only human and I want to see what humans are capable of. 

A-Bomb Dome: 

Atomic Bomb Memorial Mound (over 70,000 people are buried here):

From the Peace Memorial Museum, thermal rays from the Atomic bomb blast have permanently embedded a shadow of one of the victims: 

A young boy's school uniform after the attack:

Wherever I travel, I like to observe the native wildlife. My opportunity in Japan was a trek to Miyajima Island, home of the aforementioned feces-flinging wild monkeys and a few docile deer. I tell ya...I have been around lions, tigers and bears but nothing has made me belatedly wish for a pair of liquid-absorbant underwear like these hairy beasts did. They were insane! Running about, pounding their chests and attacking anything that got in their way or smelled of cheese. I knew I didn't stand a chance. My cousin is the moon. Gathering my thoughts in the observation deck, I made a gameplan. I would leave my backpack behind and hike up Mount Misen (the highest peak on the island) as fast as my feet would take me. Awaiting at the top was a Buddhist shrine where I could ask forgiveness from the Heavens for violently murdering all those mosquitoes over the years, thus hopefully restoring good animal karma once again. 

Traveling by ferry to Miyajima Island: 

Itsukushima Shrine: 

Chill deer: 

You are forewarned:

Don't make eyecontact...don't make eyecontact...:

Buddhist Shrine at the top of Mount Misen:

The existence of God is debatable but the view from the top I was granted made me believe: 

After experiencing some of the most beautiful scenery my eyes have ever witnessed, we made our way from Hiroshima to Kyoto. Every - and I mean EVERY - travel book from Fodor's to Frommer's has written about how beautiful this former imperial capital is and touted it as THE must see spot in the country. It's supposed to represent "true" Japan, they wrote. It's supposed to be a delicate flower, the antithesis of Tokyo's brash weed. I just wasn't feeling it though and ended up leaving early. Sure, Kyoto is aesthetically and cosmetically different from the rest of Japan, with narrow streets evoking a bygone era when Honda and Nissan were just the names of oxen. However, I felt like I had seen it all before...it reminded me of numerous other Asian townships that I have visited. The one thing that I wished to capture through my camera lens in Kyoto proved elusive: the life of a Geisha is a dying art. 

 

No.1 with a Bullet

The Japanese Shinkansen is the most technologically advanced method of transportation I have ever seen. Style and substance, they arrive at the station like clockwork...and leave just as fast. The Shinkansen waits for no one - you literally only have a few minutes to get on/off before it darts down the track again like a bullet. 

Riding the rails is a great way to witness Japan's population density up close. The entire distance from Tokyo to Hiroshima (approx. 894km) is one never-ending city. In between municipalities like Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe are just like neighborhoods in one gigantic megalopolis. It's overwhelming...as is the view when sitting in a shinkansen. Whizzing by at over 300km/h, it was hard to appreciate the blur scenery at times.

But, when whizzing by at over 300km/h, at least the ride is never long. 

Only in Japan

By night, Tokyo is a glorious technicolour explosion. By day, Tokyo is actually rather hideous, a jumble of grotesque postmodern architectural styles with no cohesive synergy. It left me cold. But I do have to admire Japanese ingenuity chutzpah; they rather shamelessly copied - and made bigger, better, bolder - such world-famous icons as the Eiffel Tower ("Tokyo Tower"), Brooklyn Bridge ("Rainbow Bridge") and Spice Girls (?!). My personal favorite building was the headquarters for fashion retailer H&M which looked like it was constructed of vellum paper. Very cool. 

One thing undeniably unique to the country are its lavatories. Made by unicorns in the magical land of Narnia, Japanese toilets offer more excitement than the rides at DisneySea. Deciphering the non-English instructions were a crap shoot at best though; with one wrong push of a button, you could be met with a blast of cold water or an unexpected enema. Clearly I wasn't the only foreigner who was puzzled, as made clear by this sign at the Metropolitan Government Office (at right).  

Japanese television is also a riddle, wrapped in a mystery inside a Hot Pocket. I have never experienced so many "WTF" moments in my life, especially during the relatively serious evening news. Set colours were all bright neon, headlines flashed across the screen in a typeface that made Comic Sans look like the epitome of high style, and the lead newscaster used a "chicken arrow" to help the viewer make sense of it all. Yes, a cartoon chicken on an arrow was somehow the most lucid part of the whole gong show. Only in Japan.

I want to go back SO BAD!!! 

 Rainy Night in Shinjuku:

View from atop the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office: 

H&M Headquarters, Tokyo: 

Japanese roadside construction barriers:

Delivery truck (note its size in comparison to the Mini Cooper):

A shaky image of the Rainbow Bridge complete with faux Statue of Liberty
(Eiffel Tokyo Tower lurking in the background):

Operational controls for a Japanese toilet:

Goofy

It is my life's goal to experience every Disney themepark in the world. A lofty ambition of which I came one step closer to achieving by visiting DisneySea. 

Riding the subway in Tokyo is, at times, quite challenging. There are so many different lines, signs and people that getting lost is inevitable. Our trek to DisneySea was no exception; I'm pretty sure that at one point we momentarily entered North Korea. But alas, through patience - and a keen eye - we received our very own white rabbit to follow in the form of a little girl dressed like Alice in Wonderland. 

The monorail, often the first point of entry into Walt's magical world of delight, is one of the most iconic aspects of any Disney themepark. Its uniqueness here was diminished though by their omnipresence as an everyday public transportation method in Tokyo (boy, do I wish I could have this observation in regards to Winnipeg. Our civic government is currently trying to get us excited about rapid BUS lanes. Wheeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!). Also, this is the only Disney themepark I have ever been to where you had to pay to get on the monorail (500 yen). Quite odd and I felt it should have been included with the full ticket price (5800 yen). Whatevs though - getting reacquainted with one's inner-child is priceless. 

My first observation upon entering the gate was that this was, by far, the most physically beautiful Disney themepark; the level of detail was absolutely mind-boggling. Built literally ON Tokyo Bay, the main areas revolve around H20-themed ports and include Mediterranean Harbour, American Waterfront, Mermaid Lagoon, the Arabian Coast and Mysterious Island (which is rather ambiguous). While there was lots to look at and appreciate, the most important aspect should be the attractions...and, sadly, DisneySea lacked in this area. A self-confessed thrillseeker, I tend to judge rides based on their ability to cause involuntary bowel movements. It is safe to say that this themepark will not require you to bring a spare change of underwear (unless of course, you visit during the high-season and encounter the infamously long line-ups). Standouts may have been the Tower of Terror (different plot than Orlando), Sinbad's Storybook Voyage (a less annoying "It's a Small World" with lots of camels), and Journey to the Center of the Earth (dinosaurs will never not be awesome). To be honest though, the thing I remember most from my visit was encountering curry-flavored popcorn. 

I like to think of myself as a Disneyphile. For instance, not many people know that the animation style of Sleeping Beauty was influenced by medieval tapestries or that the crocodile from Peter Pan once acted as spokescreature for Timex until a drug scandal embarrassingly ended his tenure (and career). However, DisneySea brought surprises. The most popular character wasn't Mickey Mouse or Goofy...it was a teddy bear (name unknown, picture below). I would guesstimate that 97% of the people in the park owned one of these bears. They were EVERYWHERE, flying off the shelves and even taking their own seat on some rides. Another surprise? I saw Donald Duck wearing pants. Mind. Blown. Now if only Lady Gaga would follow suit. 

All in all though, DisneySea made for an entertaining day. 

Big in Japan - the teddy bear character at DisneySea:

 Ambiguous Island: 

The American Waterfront (thankfully not modeled after the Jersey shore): 

Indiana Jones Adventure: 


Mickey and the Gang: 

Godzilla!

Fast asleep. Dreaming of florescent lights and crazy Tokyo nights, when suddenly the room starts shaking. Ever so slightly, but enough to wake me from slumber and imbue a sense of mortality. I was experiencing my first earthquake!

My first thought was: "on the 14th floor, there's nowhere to go but down."

My second thought was: "getting crushed by a giant neon Sony sign would be the ultimate post-modern poetic death. A 21st century cautionary tale warning about the dangers of conspicuous consumption that would take it's place amongst the folklore of future civilization." 

15 seconds later, it was over. A non-event that no one but I (born and raised far from any active tectonic plates) probably noticed. I fell asleep again, but awoke three hours later hungry for a cheeseburger. Later in the day, I would discover Lotteria.  

Turning Japanese

Walking the streets of Tokyo, you can't help but notice the sheer number of vending machines dispensing pretty much everything under the sun for the price of pocket change (cold beverages, hot beverages, beer, underwear). I made use of their convenience daily, the warm lavender tea being especially delightful on a rainy December day. Bizarrely-flavored drinks were a big trend actually, with a limited edition azuki bean-flavored Pepsi being sold as a seasonal collector's item (I tried it, not bad although a bit "mouthwash-y"). Japan was also home to the oddest Kit Kat flavors I have ever encountered, including ginger ale, Kobe pudding and red beak soup. 

Food-wise, I will admit that I was not looking forward to eating raw fish for three weeks. Japanese cuisine, while all the rage here in North America it seems, is just not my cup of warm lavender tea. But then I remembered that the best way to travel is to let go of any inhibitions and be completely immersive in the foreign experience. I remembered this after witnessing how much spaghetti they eat in Japan. TONS. They sure love their marinara - and so do I. My culinary indulgences were not without incident though; I did mistakingly purchase a dish of noodles with chopped octopus in it. It was...interesting. And by interesting, I mean it was like chewing a soy sauce-soaked prophylactic.

Restaurant chains that are near bankrupt here in North America seem to thrive in Asia. Case in point: of all the pizza joints to encounter (sadly, there were few), the only recognizable name I came across was SHAKEY'S! Don't get me wrong, I have fond memories of my parents taking me to the Shakey's in Grand Forks, ND back when I was a kid. But to be honest, in recent years the building resembled a rodent sanctuary. Krispy Kreme, which was hit hard by the recession last year, did brisk business in Japan as well. The location near my hotel always had a long, winding line-up of customers comparable to a top attraction at Disney. They even posted estimated wait times (which at one point was a good 45 minutes). Ya really gotta love donuts to endure that!  

My favorite place to shop for meals was in the basement of high-end department stores, the likes of which made Eaton's (R.I.P.) and The Bay look like Giant Tiger. Seriously, you have not experienced service until visiting the likes of Takashimaya or Mitsukoshi. One day I bought a 200 yen (approx. $2.25 CDN) macaroon cookie, which the sales associate promptly wrapped in a box and then placed in a stylish, tissue-laden gift bag. It made me feel like I was buying a necklace at Tiffany's or something. The cost of the packaging had to have been more than the cookie itself! But all of this left me jaded upon returning home to Canada; my great expectations of being briefly treated like a member of the aristocracy sorely deflated after purchasing a pricey business suit at one of the aforementioned high-end department stores and being met with the query: "do you need a bag?"

In Japan, it's estimated that there is one vending machine for every 23 people (current population 127,550,000):

The plastic food menus outside restaurants in Japan made ordering easy:

Shakey's Pizza (WTF?):

Love Letter to Japan

I'm a sucker for neon lights. They are tacky, yet mesmerizing. Kinda like Britney Spears. And no one does them better than Tokyo. I thought I would be able to witness their technicolour luminosity from above upon approach at Narita Airport, but instead I was met with the stark, sobering visual of a looming, sprawling metropolis housing one of the highest density populations on the planet. Skyscrapers seemed to jut higher than the surrounding mountain range. Traffic coiled around freeways as wide as football fields. With a squint of my eye, I swear I saw Godzilla approaching from the East. I couldn't blame him. Tokyo is THE place to be. 

I often look forward to inhaling my first deep breath when traveling to a new country; scent can be educational and often (but not always) enhances the overall experience of being in a distant land. When I traveled to China, my olfactory senses were met with the allure of cooking oil (and, sadly, heavy pollution). In England, I got the sense that they smoke a lot of cigarettes, drink a lot of ale and eat a lot of curry. Japan didn't really have much to offer in this regard though. It smelt like...Canada. Clean. And it was clean. Immaculately so. The roadways were so pristine, I imagine a team of magical sprites scrubs them down with toothbrushes each evening. There wasn't any litter either (which was odd, seeing as there were so few garbage/recycle bins). 

Our main hotel was located in Kabukicho, the entertainment and *ahem* red light district of the City which is also home to the world's busiest train station (Shinjuku). It is said that almost 4 million people pass through it EACH DAY. I concur, it was a sea of humanity. I avoided rush hour like the plague (when white-gloved station employees famously struggle to push passengers in so that the doors can close), but was still met with total lack of personal space. And by total, I mean I'm now probably carrying a fetus. I debated riding in one of the emptier "Female Only" cars, but knew that leaving my travel partner behind would only end in his disappearance from the face of the earth. 

to be continued...