36,000,000 + 1

Japan. Land of the rising sun, Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms, and the future in all its tangible forms. 

Also, land of extremely weird shit. 

I'm surprised I made it here. I didn't think I would. Choosing to stop-over at Calgary International Airport was a mistake I will not repeat. The physical layout of it is, itself, problematic (some of which could be blamed on current construction at the main terminal), but add to that confusing signage and staff that aren't really sure what's happening and it's a wonder more people don't miss their flights. The following is an actual conversation I had with someone employed there: 

"Excuse me, where do I go to make an international, non-U.S. flight connection?"

"Well, ensure you have your U.S. customs forms filled out and stand in this line right here."

"Uhm, but I'm not actually going to the U.S. though. I'm flying direct to Tokyo, Japan on Air Canada. Is this still the right line?"

"You still need to have a customs form filled out."

"Okay, but I'm not sure why. I'm not traveling to the United States."

"Yes, but you are flying over it."

"…"

As this was the fourth person I asked where to make my connection, none of which knew where I should be, my patience was running as short as the time I had. I didn't have the heart to say anything though, as I'm not convinced this person actually knew where Japan was. 

It would take two more people to tell me where to make my connection. 

---

Tokyo is a shopper's paradise. And as it has been raining non-stop since I've arrived, this is how I've been spending my time thus far.

I spent day one in the Shibuya district which is a great place to watch your money magically disappear. High-end shops, such as Chanel and Burberry, line Omotesandō, a main boulevard comparable to the Champs-Élysées in Paris. While nearby Harajuku showcases the best, comparatively affordable, trends in youth culture. I personally enjoy walking around this area to observe the cutting-edge street-fashion; Tokyoites are famous for being nonconformist. In a city of over 36,000,000 people, it's easy to get lost in the crowd. Style favours the bold. 

Thrift stores line the side-streets of this area. These are a great place to get high-end, rarely worn clothing at a fraction of the price if one is willing to spend time combing the racks for it. For example: I had always wanted a cowichan sweater but they are incredibly expensive in Canada, averaging a couple hundred dollars for a new one. During a previous visit to Japan, I bought one that was in pristine condition at a thrift store for the equivalent of $30 CDN. 

My haul from day one included clothes, a wood iPhone case, clothes, Japanese paper products, clothes, figurines of a Japanese cartoon character that looks like my dog Monty, and more clothes. Let day two begin! 

View from my hotel room at the Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku (©Deborah Clague)

Takeshita Street, the gateway to Harajuku (©Deborah Clague)

Shopping mall entrance in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

The ultra-contemporary Audi building in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

Interactive display outside an aromatherapy shop in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

North America needs more "cute" food (©Deborah Clague)

From Daiso, an item that is truly "only in Japan" (©Deborah Clague)

A typical newscast in Japan:

Countdown

In one week, I will be in one of my favourite cities in the world – the megalopolis known as Tokyo. I am beyond excited. With so much to see and do, I will not face a moment of boredom. These are the things I am most looking forward to: 

FOOD

Tokyo's culinary scene is second to none. The best chefs on the planet congregate here to experiment and finesse dishes with both regional and international inspiration. While it can get pricey dining out, there are a lot of alternatives for the frugal traveller such as 7-11. Yes, 7-11. Japanese convenience stores are amazing! As living space in the capital is at a premium, a lot of apartments don't offer much in regards to a kitchen area. The corner store meets this need offering all manner of take-out dishes for the busy salaryman (and thrifty tourist) with no oven, fridge or freezer available. From fresh sushi to spaghetti to stir-fried octopus – which I unwittingly bought the first time I visited the country – there is something for all tastebuds and I can attest to it actually being good. 

Areas where I plan on actually indulging include savouring authentic Kobe beef, exploring Japanese café culture and experiencing their (in)famous robot restaurant: 

DAISO

We've already established that I'm cheap. So it's no surprise that one of my favourite stores is Daiso, the Japanese equivalent of North American dollar stores but with much, MUCH cooler merchandise. They are often multi-level, easy to navigate and contain everything you didn't think you needed in life. Like a banana-cutter. Or a silicone pot holder in the shape of a crocodile. Or a seaweed puncher. 

GETTING HIGH

At 634m, Tokyo Skytree is the world's tallest self-supporting tower (and second only to the 829m Burj Khalifa in Dubai for tallest structure in the world). An alternative, free (!) option that comes with a great 360 degree view of the never-ending city is the observation deck of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. Although at only 202m, this doesn't seem quite as spectacular. I plan on heading to the top of both. 

View from the 45th floor of Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office (2009 ©Deborah Clague).

GETTING HIGHER

The entire purpose of my holiday is to check off an item on a bucket list I created last summer: climb Mount Fuji on my late father's birthday. In preparation, I've been training, purchasing appropriate gear from hiking boots to stocking up on blister patches, and have been thoroughly reading up on what to expect. Which, at times, has had me questioning my decision to attempt this feat. 

Physically, this may be the most difficult thing I ever do.

Spiritually, it will probably be the most fulfilling. 

ONSEN

If I'm not brought to the hospital (or morgue) because of a heart attack, then I plan on spending the days after my Mount Fuji climb at a Japanese onsen (or hot spring). But not just any onsen. In the Odaiba area of Tokyo, there is an onsen "theme park". One can spend the day pampering themselves in a multitude of ways from traditional aquatic baths of all temperatures (both indoor and outdoor) to silk and sand treatments to something called "fish therapy". Fuck it. I'm doing it all. Because if I can climb the highest mountain in Japan at over 3,776m, then I deserve it. 

I must confess though, part of the training I've been doing has been for this... 

As it is expected that visitors be fully nude when visiting a traditional Japanese onsen, mentally this may be the most difficult thing I ever do. 

Drumheller

Recently took a road trip to Drumheller, Alberta. Home of the badlands, hoodoos and Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology, it is a great place to spend a leisurely afternoon with your camera: 

Korea: Travelogue (Part VII)

Not much gives me stress when I travel. There is always the chance of getting lost but I see that as an adventure. There is always the chance of not being able to communicate but I've always been able to connect. There is always the risk of getting sick, but … it hasn't happened yet (knock on wood). 

The food in South Korea is absolutely phenomenal and diverse. Probably the best cuisine I've had outside of France. Menus are primarily in hangul, which makes it difficult to know exactly what you are getting, but this didn't pose a problem; the perfect blend of spice and sauce in every dish made me forget – or perhaps ignore – whatever the specific ingredients were.

My favourite place to eat was a hole-in-the-wall near the Lotte Hotel. I'd visit every other day as it was delicious and, more importantly, affordable. Cost of sustenance was the only thing I was unprepared for during my holiday. Seoul is not a cheap place to dine out. Even street food, located in trendy shopping districts and full of impulse buys, was costly. The first few days I was concerned with how my lack of planning (and restraint) would affect my travel budget but then I decided to just screw it. You only live once and when in Seoul, you must eat the mystery meat. And the milky-textured soda. And the "poop" bread. 

Sounds gross, but everything was seriously delicious. 

---

Every day I would walk roughly 30km around Seoul. The same distance a soldier would have to hike during training while carrying 30kg of weight on their back. I would often find myself carrying a haul of beauty products found only in Korea. This is another industry that the nation is keen to become a world influencer in.

Plastic surgery is very commonplace (the New Yorker even cites South Korea as "the world capital of plastic surgery") but it isn't the overtly-obvious type found in North America. In comparison, it is characterized by very subtle refinements and enhancements done by some of the most skilled surgeons on the planet, most of which have offices in Seoul's most affluent district, Gangham. I wasn't here for this purpose though. My nose, eyes and breasts are exactly the same since I was a teenager and shall remain as such, for better or worse, until I die. As someone who spends entirely too much money in Sephora though, I was interested in their beauty products. This is where I was introduced to the power of … snail secretion. 

Asia has a lot of strange beauty rituals. I can't personally vouch for all of them (just wait for my upcoming Japan posts), however, I will state that the women are beautiful and their skin is FLAWLESS. This is what I desire. A lifetime of acne-scarring, crater-sized pores, and living in an unpredictable, harsh climate has made me seriously self-conscious about my largest body organ. While in Seoul, I bought everything  – and I do mean everything – in an attempt to fix this or at least fool myself into thinking so for a few hours. Cleansers made from colloidal glacial clay, BB creams, "essences" of things I can't pronounce. There were also masks of all types containing everything from lemon to mugwort to pearl, and for every body part from the face to lips to feet to certain unmentionables. The one that curiously produced results for me was a facial mask described as including "snail slime extract to calm the skin and help improve skin damage". It's bananas. My skin glows. I don't know what I'll do when I run out, but it may be cheaper for me to book another ticket to Seoul than to waste further funds in my local mall. 

---

I didn't just leisurely walk this pedestrian-friendly city, I also hiked above it. Within Seoul's massive perimeter lies the world's most visited national park: Bukhansan. A few transfers on the subway from the main business district brings one to an ecological paradise that rests in stark contrast to the hustle-and-bustle of the city that surrounds it. At first I was a bit lost when trying to find the entrance but then realized that, yes, I did have to walk through an active freeway construction site in order to get to it. Of course. Development can't be – won't be – stopped. 

Amidst lush flora, trickling waterfalls and spectacular rock formations, I hiked over 123 stories (according to the health app on my iPhone) until finally reaching a Buddhist temple perched on one of the park's peaks. There was a lot of activity. A corporate retreat was underway; as well, a lot of Seoulites make this pilgrimage daily. They appeared to do it with relative ease. Whereas I regularly needed time to catch my breath amidst the wheezing, they motored through with purpose and dignity, wearing appropriate clothing and using trekking poles to wisely balance weight. I didn't even have a bottle of water and was woefully unprepared for just how "intermediate" this intermediate trail was. But I made it. The view at the top and feeling of achievement was well worth it. 

I lost my grip and stumbled on a particularly steep portion of the trail on the way down. A woman in front of me came to ask if I was okay; or at least, that's what I assumed. She didn't speak English and I didn't properly learn Korean. Sincerity is a trait that cannot be faked though. She offered me some bread and we continued the descent attempting to communicate via other means. She pointed out interesting rock carvings that I previously missed and showed me where natural, drinkable water sources were located.

At the base, we went our own ways but when I later hopped on the crowded subway to return to my hotel, I felt a tap on my shoulder. The same woman I had shared my afternoon with was also riding at that moment. I was happy to see her again. In lieu of a common language, I used images to express my love of her hometown, showing her some of the pictures I had been taking during my time in Seoul. She seemed pleased by this. As her stop approached, she smiled warmly and gave me an embrace. I knew in this city of 25 million – and this world of 7 billion – that I would probably never see her again, but she gave me a memory that I would carry forever. 

That is the purpose of travel. 

Korean feast on the private DMZ tour I took (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Not so mystery meat (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Cute food is on-trend in Korea. This is a cupcake. (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

My favourite dish at my favourite place to grab a bite (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

"Milky" soda (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

A strawberry festival was on during my time in Seoul. This is a delicious strawberry latté (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com). 

Construction site at entrance to Bukhansan National Park (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Start of the Mangwolsa Trail at Bukhansan National Park (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

View from the half-way point on Mangwolsa Trail; Seoul down below (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Signage at Mangwolsa Buddhist Temple (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Mangwolsa Buddhist Temple (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Rock carvings along Mangwolsa Trail (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

There are always protests happening in Seoul. This one is regarding the Sewol Ferry disaster of 2014 (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

This was one of the most memorable moments of my trip. I happened to be walking by Bosingak (a historic bell that signalled the opening and closing of the ancient city gates) just before noon and noticed a number of people congregating for the bell ringing ceremony. I entered and watched as a number of children got to participate. After the penultimate chime struck out, we were all asked to surround it and place our hands overtop of its massive surface. As it was hit one final time, the reverberations echoed through my entire body. It was like nothing I had ever experienced before. 

Taking the cable car up Namsan Mountain (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Love locks atop Namsan (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Love benches atop Namsan, where shy lovers are forced to get closer (selfie sticks are HUGE in Korea) (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com). 

There are landmarks representing pivotal sites from Korea's pop culture scene, hallyu. This marks a location used in a popular a soap opera (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Korea: Travelogue (Part VI)

I walked the streets of Dongdaemun taking photographs of signage and street art and the Design Plaza when an older gentleman passed me on a bicycle. I smiled as I stepped aside to give him the breadth of the sidewalk, then resumed my focus on framing shots that I wanted to capture. As I continued on though, I heard the distinct sound of spokes slowly turning behind me. The bustling ambiance of the area could not cloak the feeling I had that something was amiss. 

I purposely kept pausing to confirm that someone was following me and my gut instinct proved correct; the older man on the bike was shadowing my every step. I stopped and pretended to be immersed in my phone and he finally went by only to turn around a few yards ahead. As he cycled towards me, glaring, he spoke something in Korean. The tone in his voice was distinctly unwelcoming. 

It was the only time during my travels through Korea in which I felt unease. 

---

Watching TV in my hotel room late one night, I came across what appeared to be a reality dating show. I don't normally watch this type of programming but what the couple was doing caught my interest. I previously read about the offbeat coffee shops in Seoul, but while they seemed fun, I'm not really a coffee drinker. I am, however, a huge lover of canines. The dating show had a couple visit The Bau Haus and so I also decided to make an afternoon of it. 

I arrived early hoping to avoid a crowd but I was too late. A line-up of giggling schoolgirls stood ahead of me excitedly talking about the dogs they were about to see. I assumed they came here often; they had their favourites. As living space in Seoul is quite small, this is a way for locals to share their love with a pet without owning one. The schoolgirls counted down the seconds for the doors to open (10, 9, 8 …) and when they did, ran inside claiming several tables. I staked a seat, climatized to the odour of 40 or so dogs, and before even looking at the menu, had a wee chihuahua climb onto my lap, curl up into a ball and fall asleep.  

I was in love:

I eventually ordered a 7,000 WON (approximately $7.00 CDN) cookies-and-cream milkshake and took in the action. Guests are provided a listing of all the dogs at The Bau Haus, including their name and age. My newfound friend was Sa Tang, a one-year-old long-haired chihuahua. During my time in the coffee shop, I noticed that this breed seemed to be drawn to me. I had an endless parade of them climbing onto my lap and seeking a cuddle. When one of the resident corgis kept approaching, Sa Tang would awaken from slumber, growl and chase him away. "Ooh…he is very jealous." observed a tourist from England seated next to me.

I wondered how Monty would take this new development. 

---

"Are you from America or Canada?"

"Canada." I replied. I find it interesting when people ask me this (before hearing me speak), as it is never a consideration that I could be from anywhere but North America. I am never mistaken for someone from England (my father's lineage) or France (my mother's) or perhaps Russia or Australia or Italy. My appearance is squarely North American, whatever that means. 

"I have been to Vancouver and Calgary and Toronto." The stranger proceeded to take out his Samsung smartphone and show me pictures of his travels through the Great White North. He seemed to appreciate my homeland. Even its notorious weather. We discussed travel for a bit until the subject seemed to get stuck on the attributes of Malaysia. "You should visit Malaysia." he repeated to me. If he said it any more, I would have believed that he was attempting hypnotism. 

"I've never really thought about it, but I'll consider it."

He shared more pictures on his smartphone that depicted various sights in Kuala Lumpur. The only one I recognized was the twin towers. I am, admittedly, unfamiliar with the country. As he scrolled through, he stopped at an image and asked me what it was. 

"That's the CN Tower." I stated confidently. 

"No it is not. It is the KL Tower. You must never confuse the CN Tower with the KL Tower. You need to visit Malaysia."

After being scolded, I couldn't tell if this guy was hitting on me or involved in a really weird guerrilla marketing experiment for beleaguered Mayalsian Airlines. 

---

The Bau Haus is located near exit 3 of Hapjeong Subway Station in Seoul, Korea. For more information, click here.  

The BauHaus family (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Seriously…CUTE! (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Cho Won in person (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

There's a separate area for big dogs to roam (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Korea: Travelogue (Part V)

Beyond the DMZ and the chance to witness world history as it's happening, Korea's full embrace of its creative industries was a second motivating factor in my choice to visit the nation. As someone with a vested interest in the Arts, it is intriguing to see a government acknowledge its importance and influence in society, and actively fund it to the tune of more than 5.2 billion dollars (the second highest investor in culture after France). This does extend well beyond 'Gangham Style', of course, but k-pop is still a huge part of it. In this regard, I attended a hologram concert which was one of THE coolest experiences of my life. Photography was prohibited but this person captured and posted part of it online: 

The full impact of this obviously does not come across via a low-res Youtube video but let me assure you, when the curtain rose, I swore Psy (and 2NE1 and Big Bang) were standing in front of me. I'm not sure when this technology will become commonplace in North America, but I look forward to it. It blew me away. 

I also visited the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, a unique epicentre of design and the creative industries where global citizens can learn about and experience the latest trends and knowledge pertaining to the field. The fluid, ultra-modern architecture alone was stunning but the numerous art halls, design labs and experience zones situated within it's graceful curves also provided a much needed jolt of inspiration. My takeaway is that Korean design aims to be fun, fearless and revolutionary and its scene is one that will be a major global influencer for decades to come. 

Samsung, one of Korea's biggest brands with over 305 billion dollars in revenue and nearly half-a-million staff, has a showcase in their head office in Gangnam. Open to the public, Samsung d'light offers hands-on interaction with their latest and upcoming products and technology – it is a digital playground for early adopters. I was greatly intrigued by their educational and home life displays, while the ultra HD 4k televisions left me in awe. I'm not really one for watching TV and playing video games, but I could have spent all afternoon doing this there. 

Alas, there was so much more to see and do in Seoul. 

Like go to a dog café. 

---

Klive, the hologram concert hall, is located on the ninth floor of Lotte Fitin shopping complex in Dongdaemun, Seoul, Korea. For more information and admission prices, click here. 

Dongdaemun Design Plaza is located across the street from Lotte Fitin shopping complex. For more information, click here. 

Samsung d'light is located near exit 8 of the Gangnam Subway Station in Seoul, Korea. For more information, click here. 

Gangham district (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Ultra-modern Gangham architecture (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Gangham architecture (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Gangham architecture (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Samsung d'light (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Dongdaemun Design Plaza (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Dongdaemun Design Plaza (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Dongdaemun Design Plaza (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Seoul's infamous "poo" bread (it's delicious) (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Korea Gallery added

The first batch of retouched images from my trip to Korea have been uploaded into a gallery. It's amazing how far smartphones have come; all were taken with an iPhone 6. Please click here to view. 

Korea: Travelogue (Part IV)

"What do you do for a living?"

"I'm a designer. I create print and web materials. I wanted to visit South Korea to experience the creative culture that your government is actively promoting and hopefully be inspired once I return to Canada."

"Ooh. Good job. Very good. You will find a lot to see and do while here. Are you married?"

"No, I'm single."

"Ah…how come? We do something about this. You need a strong Korean man. I will get you one."

For the remainder of the day, my tour guide attempted to set me up with members of the military. Under normal circumstances, I would have been annoyed and embarrassed by this affront to my sense and sensibility but in this instance I was greatly amused. Even though I was on the adventure of a lifetime, experiencing things that few have the opportunity to, the topic of conversation always veered to when someone would put a ring on it as though my validation in life derived from it. 

Throughout the trip, I felt my father's spirit always with me. 

After this exchange, I felt my mother was also in the room. 

---

Driving to Seoul from Incheon Airport at dusk, the hangul signage began to illuminate the streets. It's a beautiful alphabet. I tried to decipher what they were communicating through other visual cues, but I couldn't identify anything. This just made my trip more of an adventure. I yearned to get lost in this neon safari. 

Above this, at the apex of the increasingly vertical skyline, I noticed the light of Christian crosses glowing red. Their ubiquity a sign that the United States army wasn't the only group attempting to stake their interest and convert ideology in this foreign land. 

---

"Do you think reunification will happen during your lifetime?" 

I asked this question to several people during my time in South Korea. The defector I met. People who've lost family members. While everyone expressed desire for reunification to occur, the short answer I received from everyone was the same. 

"No."

The perceived motive of the war amongst South Koreans also generated a unanimous response.

"This is just a war between super powers. First, soviet Russia and capitalist America and now China versus the west. If this were to be settled amongst Korea, we would be united by now."

View of Seoul Station from my hotel room (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Jongno Tower, representative of the striking contemporary architecture in Seoul (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Jogyesa Buddhist Temple (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Jogyesa Buddhist Temple (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Gyeongbokgung Palace (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Gyeongbokgung Palace guard (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Namdaemun Market (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

K-Pop

A major contributor to hallyu, or the South Korean wave, is pop music. With over 2 billion views of Gangham Style on Youtube, Psy is the most well known cultural export of recent times however there are a number of other artists that seem poised for international attention as well. 

During my trip, I went to a hologram concert (!) featuring Psy, 2NE1 and Big Bang. Utilizing the same technology that brought 2Pac back from the grave a few years ago at Coachella, it was one of the COOLEST things I've ever seen in my life. K-Pop is becoming my latest obsession. 

The following song by girl group 2NE1 is catchy as hell and more deserving of radio play than anything Madonna, Lady Gaga or Britney Spears have put out in years: 

Big Bang is perhaps the biggest thing in South Korea right now. During the hologram concert (which they closed), there were women young and old fawning over cardboard cut-outs of them in the lobby and merchandise graced with their image lined every mall and street market I visited. Proof positive that assembling five cute boys who sing and dance may lead to world domination.