The Onsen Experience

It wasn't part of the tour description when I booked, but after our Fuji climb, we all visited a local onsen. It was a pleasant surprise. I had never been before and wasn't sure what to expect other than being self-conscious by the mandatory nudity. There is nothing like this in North America; guests disrobe completely, leaving their clothing in a locker, before taking a public shower and then enjoying the various therapeutic hot springs (indoor, outdoor and at varying temperatures). After washing the sopping sweat off my body, I immediately went outdoors and found my own tub with a view of the mountain I had just climbed.

There are few times in my life where I have been that relaxed. I believe it was aided by being in the shadow of Fuji. It didn't look like much from that vantage point. It's near-perfect conical shape is rather non-threatening, especially without all of the snow covering it. The Canadian Rockies, the range I am most familiar with, are much darker and jagged and oblique. But I knew better. I sat there in the pool trying hard to disguise my glee that I just accomplished something bigger than I ever thought I would. Despite thousands of people doing it every year, it was something monumental for me and I felt like Superwoman. Assured that I could do anything if I put my mind (and heart) to it. 

"Is there room in here?"

I looked up as Epic Snorer entered the tub with me, the still waters now cascading over the edge. My momentary illusion of peace and "privacy" dissipated as the reality of a near-stranger about to share my personal space entered the frame. A near-stranger that kept me from getting any sleep the night prior. "But, but...there are empty baths!", I thought to myself. 

The zen was strong though and I do believe that you can learn something from everyone. Even this encounter proved insightful. Epic Snorer talked with me about travel, life and loss. I mentioned that India was probably next on my list and she shared her own experience visiting it, including bringing her mother's ashes to Varanasi to perform the same ritual that I had hoped to do for my father. 

The dots in my life always seem to connect. 

The next day, I decided to relive the experience by visiting Oedo Onsen Monogatari Hot Springs in Tokyo. This is basically an onsen theme park with even more hot springs to choose from, in addition to a full spa, amusements and large dining area all designed to look like historic Edo. At this point, being naked in front of complete strangers did not bother me. In fact, I found it empowering. I spent an hour or so alternating between the coldest and hottest bath, and then indulged in the full spa treatment: a 90 minute massage, facial and pedicure where garra rufa fish eat away at the dead skin on one's feet. They had plenty to feast on at this point; Fuji killed my soles. Afterwards, I dined on bulgogi at a Korean restaurant within the establishment. It was the most indulgent day possible without being the reincarnation of Marie Antoinette. 

So chill was I that I got on the wrong train heading back to my hotel and ended up in Yokohama. 

The Descent

Descending Mount Fuji was just as difficult as hiking up. It takes a different trail from the ascent; one that initially seems easier, but soon becomes torturous in its own way. Again, the path is littered with deep ash in which the feet sink. I had to empty the contents of my shoes every hundred metres or so and also fell down several times when I lost balance. It wasn't embarrassing though, as I finally acquired the smug aplomb of someone who just climbed a motherfuckin' mountain. Yeah! My personal issue with the descent was that it seemed endless. Everytime I turned a corner, I anticipated that the tree line would be near … but it wasn't. Mount Fuji teases. And if you foolishly don't wear sunscreen – like I did – it also burns. 

I continued bonding with Alaska. I've often daydreamed about connecting with someone during my travels. Not necessarily in a romantic sense, but moreso by just meeting someone in a foreign land who makes you feel less alone in the universe. An unbiased person who can provide answers to questions that have been troublesome. An ear to rest one's deepest thoughts and feelings, ideations we often don't share with loved ones for fear of judgement or rejection. Or perhaps just an individual to share extended periods of silence with, while feeling comfort in the sense of belonging to something bigger. It's the 'Lost in Translation' effect. Our conversation was deep and varied. When we finally returned to the fifth station, our meeting point for return to Tokyo, a part of me was saddened that I would probably never see this new friend again, although I was happy for the time that we shared as it were. It was brief, but life-altering. 

Out of a group of ten people, two quit on the way up … and two quit on the way down, hiring the tractor that brings supplies up to the various stations. This came at a cost to them of 30,000 Yen (or roughly $300.00 U.S. a piece). It is discouraged and often used only in medical emergencies but money talks. When I heard this, I felt for them. Climbing Mount Fuji is not easy, despite what people say. It requires not only physical strength but also the mental fortitude to make it through.

I am proud that I did it. 

But I am never climbing a mountain again. 

Climbing Mount Fuji (Part II)

I could barely lift the spoon to my mouth. Part of me marvelled that I was even given this utensil, as chopsticks were the norm during my travels. It was a pleasant surprise as I am completely inept at eating with the latter. The dinner, consisting of rice and beef curry, was delicious but I was too exhausted to enjoy it. After brief socialization, I excused myself and went straight to my sleeping bag to catch some zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz's. 

When I initially entered the mountain hut at the eighth station, I was kinda excited to see semi-private bunks. "This won't be so bad", I thought to myself. This was short-lived as I quickly realized that we would, in fact, be sleeping on the floor in a massive room with about 50 other people. I was situated between one of the remaining women from Singapore and the Alaskan. By the time they went to bed, I was already knocked out. 

I slept SOLIDLY for two hours before my bladder woke me up. I checked the time on my iPhone. It was only 11:05pm. We were scheduled to depart at 2:00am. I would really need those extra few hours of sleep for the next portion of the ascent but I could hear rustling, tossing and turning in the room and the reason behind it: some of the loudest, guttural snoring I have ever heard in my life. I tried to figure out who it was but it was so thunderous that it seemed to envelope the entire space. I put on my slippers and braved the cold to reach the solitude (and silence) of the washroom. 

Japanese toilets are legendary. They are so advanced, I wouldn't be surprised if there were models that can accurately predict remaining lifespan. Even on Mount Fuji, even at 3,100m above sea level, the toilets are awesome. You have to pay to use them (200 Yen) but when your body is starting to enter a deep-freeze, nothing feels better than to sit down on one of their warmed seats. This was an extensive topic of conversation and consensus amongst our group during the day. It was a really long hike. This, and occasional karaoke, provided much needed entertainment. 

While outside, I stopped to take in the scenery. Down below, I could see the mass of Tokyo glittering. It was a beautiful sight. This was the first time I felt I was doing something more momentous than a hike. I was pushing myself out of my element in a massive way. In a year of giving myself numerous distractions in avoidance (and denial) of depression following my father's death, this was a shift in outlook that I needed. I needed to keep evolving. This experience would bring me from relatively lazy connoisseur of Doritos to someone who truly feels like they can take on the world and conquer it. I now believe nothing less. 

Returning to the shared sleeping space, I noticed a lot of people were awake. The snoring was just too much. I climbed back into my sleeping bag and shut my eyes in an attempt to trick my body into dozing off. It didn't work. In time, I felt I could actually hear the subtle nuance as the exhalation reverberated through the perpetrator's individual nose hairs; a symphony of weird, bodily functions. 

"Fuckin' HELL!" I heard a British accent proclaim in frustration from across the room. 

"At least someone is sleeping", I thought to myself. "Tomorrow is going to be a loooonnnngggg day."

To be continued...

Becoming Big in Japan

"Excuse me..."

Normally I would continue walking. Or pretend to only speak and understand French. But the man was holding a clipboard. At the very least, I assumed he was soliciting for charitable donations and I didn't want to be rude. I am Canadian, after all. 

"I am with Tokyo TV and we would like to ask you a few questions. Are you willing to be filmed for television?"

I tried to hide my enthusiasm. HELLS YES, I wanted to be on Japanese TV!!! I wondered if a giant cartoon character was about to sneak up behind me. Or perhaps this would lead to an appearance on one of their infamously wacky game shows. I was up for anything. I demurely responded in the affirmative and inquired as to what type of questions I would be asked. I always like to be prepared and avoid looking like an idiot. 

"Just stand over here and she will ask you the questions."

A petite Japanese woman holding a mic stepped in front of me and made brief introduction. I noted the camera crew already filming to my left. I had no idea what was about to happen. 

"What do you know about soba noodles?"

And thus for the next five minutes, I was interviewed on a subject I know absolutely nothing about. I was on Japanese TV though…and that's all that matters. 

It was a long day. 

Not a hard day, but a long day spent at one of Japan's spa theme parks where I indulged in hours of relaxing in the onsen, getting a massage and facial, and even trying one of those "fish pedicures" where the species garra rufa eat away at the dead skin cells on one's feet (it was awesome, btw). Perhaps I was too relaxed. 

Afterwards at Tokyo Teleport station, I followed the signage to the track that listed Shinjuku, the area where my hotel was located and where I was returning. Shinjuku is the world's busiest train station with over two million people passing through it every single day. It can be absolute chaos. Ordered chaos, as is the norm in a society as structured as Japan, but still too overwhelming for someone from a small prairie town. The crowds had already started forming on the platform. I assumed these fellow passengers were also travelling to the hub to make further connections. I stood in line. A train listing Japanese characters that I couldn't identify and the word "Shinjuku" soon followed. Perfect timing, I thought. I boarded with the masses. 

It was so crowded, I could barely move. I longed for a seat but there was no chance of that happening. Besides, this ride would be at most 20 minutes. I climbed Mount Fuji the previous two days; I could endure this claustrophobic discomfort for that relatively brief time. As the train started moving though, I couldn't help but notice that it wasn't making any stops. Ten minutes passed, then twenty. 

I should be at Shinjuku by now, I thought. 

I stood on my toes and tried to catch a glimpse at the landscape outside. The buildings had become smaller. It was still an endless city, but this view didn't have the technicolour glamour of central Tokyo that I was familiar with. "Where the fuck is this train going?", I thought to myself. 

I turned to a man standing next to me and, shaking my head in defeat, feebly asked "Shinjuku?"

"Ooooooooh noooooo!!!" he cried and pointed in the opposite direction. 

And that's how I ended up in Yokohama. 

Cats, Robots and the Art of Presentation

I hate cats. 

Despite this aversion, I decided to visit a "cat café" in Tokyo, believing it would be as interesting as the canine version I visited in Seoul. Finding one was like finally coming across the needle in the haystack though. Because space is at a premium in Asia, malls are built vertically … and they are all really, really high. In addition, signage is primarily in Japanese which I can't read. This proved especially inconvenient the day I got on the wrong train and ended up in a completely different city. But I digress. While out walking one day, I chanced upon a sign with a bunch of feline silhouettes on it and figured it was either a genuine cat café or a pet shop. Either way, with the temperature reaching 35 degrees celsius by 8:00am, I thought I would check it out if only to enjoy the air conditioning. Sidenote: if you are not planning on climbing Mount Fuji, then avoid visiting Japan during the summer months. The heat is unbearable. 

After getting into a really old, creaky elevator and making my way up, up, up, I entered the Calico Cat Café in Shinjuku. It was not what I expected. Well, it was but it wasn't. There were cats. Plenty of miserable cats giving me the evil eye. They probably could sense my Monty, as they seemed keen to interact with the other people there, which included a number of tourists. I did not feel welcome in their domain though. I wandered about and tried to feign interest but I left after 10 minutes. Cost of this was 1000 Yen (approximately $10 CDN) and I didn't even get a drink. 

I love dogs. 

There has been much press about the astronomical price of certain produce in Japan, such as watermelons selling for $12,000 U.S. While this madness does exist in the high-end department stores – I can confirm seeing a handful of grapes for over 10,800 Yen  ($108.00 U.S.) – it is not the norm. Certain foods are slightly more expensive than in North America, but you don't need to re-mortgage your home to try them.

My favourite place to get lunch is the food hall of Takashimaya, which is located across the street from my hotel. Anything you can imagine is available here. All fresh. All super delicious. The service level and packaging are also second to none. As a designer, I am always impressed with the level of presentation that the Japanese dedicate to everything they do. There is an art to existing here that I wish were more prevalent in North America. 

Now in terms of presentation, the Robot Restaurant is also in a league of its own. I admit, I was initially skeptical. It seemed interesting but also super-cheesy. A part of me was scared to develop seizures at the crazy amount of clashing colours and lights. I was also worried that a robot assault was imminent, as the hostess repeatedly reminded those in the front row (where I was seated) to LEAN BACK in their chairs so as not to get hit during the performance.  

After visiting, all I have to say is that this is the greatest cheese in the universe. The Robot Restaurant is amazing and worth every penny. It is a completely unique Japanese experience; I cannot imagine anything like this anywhere else on the planet. It must be seen to be understood (and even then, it is an enigma), but all I will say is that there are beautiful dancing women, an epic brawl involving a panda, and plenty of robots. Giant, awesome robots. 

Calico Cat Café in Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Calico Cat Café in Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Calico Cat Café in Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Calico Cat Café in Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Tokyo signage (©Deborah Clague)

Tokyo signage (©Deborah Clague)

Lounge act at the Robot Restaurant, Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Lounge act at the Robot Restaurant, Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Sitting in the lounge at the Robot Restaurant, Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Sitting in the lounge at the Robot Restaurant, Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

I am in love: 

Tokyo from Above no.1

A view of Tokyo from the 45th floor of the Metropolitan Government Office: 

Park Hyatt, where the film 'Lost in Translation' was filmed. 

Park Hyatt, where the film 'Lost in Translation' was filmed. 

While they haven't taken off in North America, QR codes are still widely used in Asia. This one, at the observation deck of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office, connects to an interactive app giving users background information about the view they are enjoying. 

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