Red River Girl

I grew up in a blue collar, working class neighborhood, the type of which is not lucrative to build today. Located in south Winnipeg, it is surrounded by agriculture, once-secluded monastic ruins, and a landfill. The Red River snakes through its easternmost boundary. As an only-child, I explored this space by bike and foot on my own creating stories in my head of adventure that were bigger than anything present in the reality of suburbia. While I didn’t grow up wealthy, my imagination was allowed to flourish and became rich.

Approaching the road leading to the neighbourhood I grew up in during a recent visit to my hometown, an encampment consisting of several tee-pees, canvas tents and a longhouse caught my eye. As did several news trucks. It was the start of a blockade protesting government inaction in the search of a Winnipeg landfill for the remains of two Indigenous women who were murdered and disposed of in a most inhumane way. Discourse surrounding the decision centred on cost and safety, but was remiss in excluding race. The protestors vowed to stay until a search was conducted. During my childhood of backyard and beyond exploration, this isn’t something I ever encountered or learned about. Although, it probably was by design.

It is only in recent years that I’ve learned about Canada’s true history with its Indigenous population (thanks in big part to an employer that prioritizes this education for all staff). Now whenever I hear news stories like this, I see how First Nations communities are transparently treated as “other”. As a different, other sub-class of people denied the opportunities and, at times, dignities, that are offered to the general population. Being forced to accept that your loved ones are viewed as literal trash is part of that. I can’t imagine anyone else subjected to that without at least an attempt for proper closure.


Books of wonder and fantasy offered escape as a kid. But the books I gravitate towards as an adult are rarely light. The words on the page can be dark and cause discomfort as is the case with Red River Girl: The Life and Death of Tina Fontaine by Joanna Jolly. This was my summer reading before I knew about the protests at Brady Road landfill but each is intertwined with the other and needs to be studied in tandem. Tina was murdered and disposed of in the Red River in 2014. This discovery led to federal government action on an inquiry into the many missing and murdered Indigenous women in Canada. Some argued this was long overdue as the phenomena of MMIWG2S stretched back decades (and continues today).

While reading Red River Girl, I couldn’t ignore the contrast of our adolescence. From a young age, I was encouraged to discover, supported to grow, and empowered to become. I felt safe and had a sense of belonging in my community. Tina never had these opportunities. At just fifteen, she had a very, very different life than my own. One punctuated by loss, addiction, exploitation and abuse that no child should ever have to endure. Her story’s ending also lacked closure; the main suspect in Tina’s murder was acquitted.

The book was a hard read that shared a Canadian story that is ongoing. Indigenous women and girls are the most vulnerable members of our society. Canada, and, as such, Canadian society, needs to do better in ensuring their wellbeing is protected and their value to our cultural mosaic is respected.


As I prepare to depart Winnipeg, the protest at Brady Road landfill continues.

Long Drive Down a Long Road

In sharp contrast to the bustling streets of Tokyo, I can drive for miles and miles without seeing another being in my home province of Saskatchewan. But when I do, it’s guaranteed that I will be on the receiving end of a friendly wave of acknowledgement as we pass. Weekends like this—of getting lost under the living sky—are my favourite moments of living on the prairies.

The desolate Highway 36, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague)

Abandoned homes house ghosts of the past in rural Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague)

Town of Coronach, Saskatchewan signage (©2023, Deborah Clague)

Mural on Main Street, Coronach, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague)

Canola fields, rural Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Our Lady of Lourdes Cemetery 1912-1953, Saskatchewan (©2023, Deborah Clague).

The Hours

There aren’t enough hours in the day.

There are certainly not enough hours in the day while on holiday, even when all you have planned is to meander about and people-watch. In this regard, Tokyo is one of the most visually engaging locations on the planet, a kaleidoscope of light and colour and active participation from its populace to seize the moment in both style and trend. But there also isn’t enough time as, post-pandemic, I’ve realized how much I’ve missed and longed for the escape of going beyond borders to experience something new. I’m three years older now. Busier with work and growing a business. Tired and sore at the end of the day. Missing the opportunity to add to the rich tapestry of memory in my life is something that may not happen as frequently in time. So seizing the moment, however banal, is pivotal.

Walking streets where no one knows my name and I don’t understand the local language is the freest feeling in the world for me. Senses heightened, intellect sharpened, it is a way for me to inject adventure into my life while fully experiencing everything in my peripheral. As a solo traveller, you are forced to be alert and present. Perhaps moreso as a woman. In Japan though, this alertness is enveloped in the solace of knowing I am in one of the safest countries in the world.

For the duration of my trip, I walked no less than 15 kilometres per day. From a base in the neon jungle of Shinjuku, where buildings mimic rainbow road and house castles at their peak, I traversed the city and most of its districts. Odaiba is relatively new and sanitized. An artificial island in which there is an artificial Statue of Liberty. Odaiba is listed as a touristy area with a variety of shopping and entertainment centres, although walking just beyond the immediate and obvious sights you realize how empty and quiet it truly is. It is one of the only spots I’ve encountered in Tokyo truly devoid of energy.

And then there’s the long hike from Akihibara (Electric Town) past Kappabashi Dougu Street to Senso-ji Temple. During the AM in Akihibara, the streets are lined with men—literally hundreds of men—eager to retain their high score in this gamer paradise. At night, those same streets are lined with young women—literally hundreds of young women—handing out flyers while coquettishly batting their eyelashes in an effort to entice those same men into the maid cafés so densely (and wisely) located next door. Senso-ji Temple is an always crowded spot. Perhaps the best temple in Tokyo for observing prayer by locals in traditional dress. As for Kappabashi Dougu Street … I still recall the first time I came across the giant chef’s head at its origin and was completely perplexed at what I was looking at. I later learned, of course, that it wasn’t haphazard placement at all. Rather, it signalled the entrance of the restaurant suppliers marketplace, an enjoyable area to window shop for an hour.

Ginza, home of some of the world’s most expensive real estate, is the area where I can’t afford to even enter a store but walking through on a hot day gives much-needed brisk, icy blasts of air conditioning as doormen open entrances to those who can. Ginza is but a passage to my favourite temple in Tokyo though, Zojo-ji. The wafts of incense continually burning carry in the air and make it a truly spiritual experience. Right behind Zoji-ji is Tokyo Tower, a stark contrast in both architecture and culture.

On the final day of my trip—and with a pilot strike deadline looming at the airline I travelled with—I decided to do one of my favourite things in Japan: spend the day in tranquility at an onsen “theme park”. It’s not the place to people-watch but to reflect inwardly. To soak in sulphuric milky mineral baths and reminisce on the hours and kilometres walked. I may not have had the most definitive of plans when I started but the sum of my journey gave me exactly what I sought. A reassurance that the hours, however banal, do add up to something great.

New Worlds, New Perspectives

While in Tokyo, I acquired tickets to two of the most sought-after art exhibits in town: Yayoi Kusama’s Self-Obliteration/Psychedelic World and teamLab Planets. Reservations are required and they both sell-out quickly.

I had my first experience with contemporary avant garde artist Yayoi’s immersive work last year while in Los Angeles and was eager to view more pieces from her collection and learn the credo of world peace and love for humanity that is evoked through her body of work. The current featured exhibit at the museum which bears her name, Yayoi Kusama’s Self Obliteration/Psychedelic World, opened on April 29. While listed as a museum though, I would classify it as a small gallery that was more limited than I anticipated offering no real insight into who Yayoi Kusama is as a person. To truly get a sense of her scope, I would recommend a traveling exhibit rather than this museum.

teamLab is an art collective that aims to create exhibits which explore the relationship between humanity and the world around them. In Planets, their current Tokyo-based exhibition, visitors become one with the tactile and light-based artwork. In the Water Gallery, for example, you walk down dark hallways pooled with water that barely reflect the minimal lighting and then step into a knee-deep pond in which your movement attracts digital koi drawn to your presence. The work is rendered in real time by a computer; it is not pre-recorded, nor set on a loop. The interaction between the viewer and the installation determines how the artwork looks.

As one can imagine, teamLab is selfie heaven and this is the part that slightly diminished the experience. It was hard to truly appreciate some of the work with so many people posing. It was also difficult to read artist statements to understand the piece you are experiencing. But perhaps that is the ultimate (intended or not) message on humanity’s interaction with the world—that we are only interested in it in a self-serving manner.

The Yayoi Kusama Museum, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Each and Every Wish for Peace Just Shines, Yayoi Kusama Museum, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

The Obliteration Room, Yayoi Kusama Museum, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

The Obliteration Room, Yayoi Kusama Museum, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

The Obliteration Room, Yayoi Kusama Museum, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Flowers that Bloom at Midnight, Yayoi Kusama Museum, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).


Expanding Three-Dimensional Existence in Transforming Space, teamLab Planets, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

The Infinite Crystal Universe, teamLab Planets, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

The Infinite Crystal Universe, teamLab Planets, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

The very dark, and slightly ominous looking, water-filled hallways one must walk through to get from one exhibit to the next, teamLab Planets, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Drawing on the Water Surface Created by the Dance of Koi and People, teamLab Planets, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Drawing on the Water Surface Created by the Dance of Koi and People, teamLab Planets, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Moss Garden of Resonating Microcosms, teamLab Planets, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Floating Flower Garden, teamLab Planets, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Floating Flower Garden, teamLab Planets, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Floating Flower Garden, teamLab Planets, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Cafe of the Day

There are a few reasons why I enjoyed visiting Anakuma Café so much.

An an introvert, the lack of human interaction (or any humans being present at all) was appealing. The menu has a number of items, from hot and cold beverages to foodstuffs. All orders are placed and paid for exclusively via a touchscreen.

As someone employed in a creative field, the concept behind the café was truly interesting, innovative and peculiar. It is not something I’ve ever seen before. While the café itself is tiny, my experience was, shall we say, immersive and unique.

As a tea lover, the delicious cold lemon tea I ordered quenched my thirst on an obscenely hot day.

And, as an animal lover, I loved that I was served my drink through a hole in the wall by a giant resident “bear” that also gave me some treats for my journey with a lovely parting message and a high five. I am in my forties and Anakuma Café was an absolute delight. I can’t recommend it enough.

Anakuma Café, Harajuku, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

A most peculiar place, Anakuma Café, Harajuku, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Receiving treats from the resident “bear” at Anakuma Café. After placing an order, you also receive a special coin to use on the prize machine. I won a free drinks and a box of donuts coupon, which I gave to the two other local customers in the shop. Anakuma Café, Harajuku, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Anakuma Café, Harajuku, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Quenching my thirst with a lemon tea on a 33 degrees celsius day, Anakuma Café, Harajuku, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Parting message from the resident bear at Anakuma Café, Harajuku, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Hand-drawn message from the resident bear at Anakuma Café, Harajuku, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Vending Machines of Tokyo

In Japan, there is a vending machine for literally everything (including finding a potential romantic partner). Below are some of the more interesting ones I encountered on my daily walks throughout the megalopolis:

Curry vending machine, Harajuku, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Honey vending machine, Harajuku, Tokyo. I bought myself a sample jar (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Fish-flavoured soup stock vending machine, Shinjuku, Tokyo. Yes, there is a fish in the bottle (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Dumpling and assorted other hot meals vending machine, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Steak, beef and sushi vending machines, Harajuku, Tokyo Diver City (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Milk product vending machine, Shinjuku, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Cafe of the Day

Another day, another only in Japan experience. Today, I visited a micro-pig café.

Beverages are an after-thought here, although you could treat yourself to an assortment of coffee and juice. This is purely a place to offer your body as use of a pillow for a bunch of absolutely adorable and sociable micro-pigs of varying sizes and ages. According to staff, if the bigger pigs take a nap on you, it is a sign of good luck. This happened twice during my hour in their presence. I’m not sure how lucky my day will be but it definitely started out on a good note.

miPig Café is located in the Harajuku district of Tokyo, Japan. As with most things now that travel has opened back up, reservations are highly recommended.

Me and my new friends at miPig Café, Tokyo (©2023 Deborah Clague).

miPig Café, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague)

miPig Café, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague)

miPig Café, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague)

Not sure if that’s a pig or a baby hippo, miPig Cafe, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

miPig Café, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

miPig Café, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

Selfies abound at the miPig Café, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

miPig Café, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague)

The max number of micro-pigs that used me as a comfy nap spot was five. My legs went numb after awhile but I didn’t want to disrupt them. miPig Café, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague).

The friendly (and adorable) staff at miPig Café, Tokyo (©2023, Deborah Clague)

4:17am

Day three of my visit to Tokyo. Still struggling with jet lag. I keep waking up at 2:00am and then forcing myself to return to slumber. Sometimes it is successful and sometimes I am jolted wide awake by an emergency notification on my phone:

There’s not too much information as I type this but it would appear to be a 5.4 magnitude quake centred around Tokyo. The hotel I am staying at has issued messaging over the intercom informing guests to stay in their room and that elevators will be shut down for the time being. I’ve been to Japan before—and am aware earthquakes are a regular occurrence—but this one felt bigger than any I’ve experienced. My bed SHOOK and I could feel the entire hotel sway. Hopefully this wasn't a prelude to something else.