36,000,000 + 1

Japan. Land of the rising sun, Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms, and the future in all its tangible forms. 

Also, land of extremely weird shit. 

I'm surprised I made it here. I didn't think I would. Choosing to stop-over at Calgary International Airport was a mistake I will not repeat. The physical layout of it is, itself, problematic (some of which could be blamed on current construction at the main terminal), but add to that confusing signage and staff that aren't really sure what's happening and it's a wonder more people don't miss their flights. The following is an actual conversation I had with someone employed there: 

"Excuse me, where do I go to make an international, non-U.S. flight connection?"

"Well, ensure you have your U.S. customs forms filled out and stand in this line right here."

"Uhm, but I'm not actually going to the U.S. though. I'm flying direct to Tokyo, Japan on Air Canada. Is this still the right line?"

"You still need to have a customs form filled out."

"Okay, but I'm not sure why. I'm not traveling to the United States."

"Yes, but you are flying over it."

"…"

As this was the fourth person I asked where to make my connection, none of which knew where I should be, my patience was running as short as the time I had. I didn't have the heart to say anything though, as I'm not convinced this person actually knew where Japan was. 

It would take two more people to tell me where to make my connection. 

Tokyo is a shopper's paradise. And as it has been raining non-stop since I've arrived, this is how I've been spending my time thus far.

I spent day one in the Shibuya district which is a great place to watch your money magically disappear. High-end shops, such as Chanel and Burberry, line Omotesandō, a main boulevard comparable to the Champs-Élysées in Paris. While nearby Harajuku showcases the best, comparatively affordable, trends in youth culture. I personally enjoy walking around this area to observe the cutting-edge street-fashion; Tokyoites are famous for being nonconformist. In a city of over 36,000,000 people, it's easy to get lost in the crowd. Style favours the bold. 

Thrift stores line the side-streets of this area. These are a great place to get high-end, rarely worn clothing at a fraction of the price if one is willing to spend time combing the racks for it. For example: I had always wanted a cowichan sweater but they are incredibly expensive in Canada, averaging a couple hundred dollars for a new one. During a previous visit to Japan, I bought one that was in pristine condition at a thrift store for the equivalent of $30 CDN. 

My haul from day one included clothes, a wood iPhone case, clothes, Japanese paper products, clothes, figurines of a Japanese cartoon character that looks like my dog Monty, and more clothes. Let day two begin! 

View from my hotel room at the Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku (©Deborah Clague)

View from my hotel room at the Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku (©Deborah Clague)

Takeshita Street, the gateway to Harajuku (©Deborah Clague)

Takeshita Street, the gateway to Harajuku (©Deborah Clague)

Shopping mall entrance in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

Shopping mall entrance in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

The ultra-contemporary Audi building in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

The ultra-contemporary Audi building in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

Interactive display outside an aromatherapy shop in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

Interactive display outside an aromatherapy shop in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

North America needs more "cute" food (©Deborah Clague)

North America needs more "cute" food (©Deborah Clague)

From Daiso, an item that is truly "only in Japan" (©Deborah Clague)

From Daiso, an item that is truly "only in Japan" (©Deborah Clague)

Countdown

In one week, I will be in one of my favourite cities in the world – the megalopolis known as Tokyo. I am beyond excited. With so much to see and do, I will not face a moment of boredom. These are the things I am most looking forward to: 

FOOD

Tokyo's culinary scene is second to none. The best chefs on the planet congregate here to experiment and finesse dishes with both regional and international inspiration. While it can get pricey dining out, there are a lot of alternatives for the frugal traveller such as 7-11. Yes, 7-11. Japanese convenience stores are amazing! As living space in the capital is at a premium, a lot of apartments don't offer much in regards to a kitchen area. The corner store meets this need offering all manner of take-out dishes for the busy salaryman (and thrifty tourist) with no oven, fridge or freezer available. From fresh sushi to spaghetti to stir-fried octopus – which I unwittingly bought the first time I visited the country – there is something for all tastebuds and I can attest to it actually being good. 

Areas where I plan on actually indulging include savouring authentic Kobe beef, exploring Japanese café culture and experiencing their (in)famous robot restaurant: 

DAISO

We've already established that I'm cheap. So it's no surprise that one of my favourite stores is Daiso, the Japanese equivalent of North American dollar stores but with much, MUCH cooler merchandise. They are often multi-level, easy to navigate and contain everything you didn't think you needed in life. Like a banana-cutter. Or a silicone pot holder in the shape of a crocodile. Or a seaweed puncher. 

GETTING HIGH

At 634m, Tokyo Skytree is the world's tallest self-supporting tower (and second only to the 829m Burj Khalifa in Dubai for tallest structure in the world). An alternative, free (!) option that comes with a great 360 degree view of the never-ending city is the observation deck of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. Although at only 202m, this doesn't seem quite as spectacular. I plan on heading to the top of both. 

View from the 45th floor of Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office (2009 ©Deborah Clague).

View from the 45th floor of Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office (2009 ©Deborah Clague).

GETTING HIGHER

The entire purpose of my holiday is to check off an item on a bucket list I created last summer: climb Mount Fuji on my late father's birthday. In preparation, I've been training, purchasing appropriate gear from hiking boots to stocking up on blister patches, and have been thoroughly reading up on what to expect. Which, at times, has had me questioning my decision to attempt this feat. 

Physically, this may be the most difficult thing I ever do.

Spiritually, it will probably be the most fulfilling. 

ONSEN

If I'm not brought to the hospital (or morgue) because of a heart attack, then I plan on spending the days after my Mount Fuji climb at a Japanese onsen (or hot spring). But not just any onsen. In the Odaiba area of Tokyo, there is an onsen "theme park". One can spend the day pampering themselves in a multitude of ways from traditional aquatic baths of all temperatures (both indoor and outdoor) to silk and sand treatments to something called "fish therapy". Fuck it. I'm doing it all. Because if I can climb the highest mountain in Japan at over 3,776m, then I deserve it. 

I must confess though, part of the training I've been doing has been for this... 

As it is expected that visitors be fully nude when visiting a traditional Japanese onsen, mentally this may be the most difficult thing I ever do. 

Thirty Something: Vignette no.3

"It's gone now, so you will have a space to park your car when you visit."

It was a kick to the stomach. An unexpected, if not inevitable, moment I'd been waiting for and hoping would be miraculously put off indefinitely. Despite being nearly a year on, the permanence of the event had still not fully resonated. I had items to cling to – THINGS – such as old hockey jerseys and tools and the type of objects that dads just seem to collect and keep for no reason whatsoever. Within this amassed wealth of curios, I felt comfort that his spirit was still around. But now it seemed I needed to redirect. We are, after all, not our material goods. 

"It made me sad too but we needed to do something about it. The car couldn't just sit there forever. You have nowhere to park when you visit."

It wasn't a hockey jersey or tool, those were still there and would remain in their place, but it was my late father's vehicle and this would be much more noticeably absent when I visited. A gaping void next to the house cruelly reminding me of the unexpected loss. As my mother didn't know how to drive, it ultimately served no purpose other than helping us both stall change. She did the right thing. I will never be prepared to face this newfound reality. 

The 2000 Honda Civic SE wasn't just his vehicle, it was my old car as well. My first major purchase, my father talked me into buying it instead of moving in with a boyfriend back-in-the-day (which was good advice as the car definitely had a longer lifespan). He coached me in haggling a fair price. He taught me the importance of regular maintenance. He joined me on road-trips from coast-to-coast. The vehicle was a vessel of our relationship. Despite having another set of wheels, my father bought the Honda from me in 2008 when I upgraded. He never admitted it, but I knew it was a pity purchase once again meant to help me out. 

Part of me though believes he couldn't bear to see it go either. 

My dad proudly took pictures the day I bought my first car (1999). 

My dad proudly took pictures the day I bought my first car (1999). 


Tokyo Max

Tokyo Max poster design. I designed this piece based on my interpretation of the riot and opposing restraint to be found in the world's greatest megalopolis (©Deborah Clague, 2015):