At Midnight

There is some comic relief. My father's roommate, 49-2, has been in the hospital since last Friday awaiting hip surgery. Everyday, he fasts in preparation. And every night, like clockwork, his starvation is rewarded by being informed that his surgery has been bumped. He now exists on cigarettes and donuts, as that is the only thing available in the cafeteria after 10:00 pm. At midnight fasting begins anew, giving relatively little time to enjoy all the pleasures of this nicotine and sugar rush. Despite this, he remains in good spirits always cracking jokes at his predicament and placing bets as to when he will actually receive the treatment he needs. I've informed him that he isn't getting out of this salmon pink prison anytime soon and have so far been (regrettably) correct.

Visitor hours end at 8:30pm but hospital staff are very lax with enforcing it. I often stay until midnight using this downtime to hone my craft as my father sleeps. Occasionally I read a book I picked up on our trip titled "Secrets of Versailles". When he awakes, I detail the fascinating hidden history of the place we visited just over a month prior. He seems interested but I know the words I speak are soon to be forgotten in the haze of meds that are placed on his bedside table every few hours. The moments of lucidity are becoming few and far between. 

But he is still there. 

And I know he knows I am still there. 

When I do depart, 49-2 always assures me that he will act as my father's sentry in my absence. 


Few people stay beyond the visiting hours but those who do get moments of quiet that are ripe for reflection. During this situation, a part of me has felt like a failure for not taking the traditional path that modern life encourages: A spouse to help pay for an over-valued property. An SUV to help haul all of the items required to make that over-valued property seem less empty. A few kids to mask the hollowness of the house and - subsequently - the marriage. There is a societal guilt for not choosing this life and I've been burdened by not giving my father the comfort of normalcy. But then I sit and listen to the conversations that surround a dying man. Of excuses as to why spouses don't attend family gatherings. Of the days when getting a manicure is the highlight of one's week. And I know that my father would not want this banal existence for me, nor expect it of me. He's been teaching me this all along. 


It's been an unseasonably cool summer in Winnipeg and has been raining a lot of late. Walking out of the hospital, the reflection of stop lights in the puddles has provided prismatic distraction from the dreariness of literally everything. But one day something else caught my eye. In the distance, city workers surrounded my vehicle. I initially assumed I had been parked there too long and was getting the dreaded boot; then I thought a sewer backed-up as a result of all the rain. As I approached, I realized that it was much more significant than that. 

"Is this your car?" one of the workers asked me as I stood agape. "You don't know how lucky you are. A limb from this tree fell, missed your vehicle by mere inches. Must have weighed 3,000lbs." 

This instance of pure chance jolted me from my near-constant state of depression to offer a bit of hope that the nearly year-long holding pattern of bad news wouldn't last forever. 

The next day when I visited the hospital, and after nearly a week of waiting, 49-2 finally went in for surgery.

Salmon Pink

Salmon Pink

Is a colour that should not exist outside of nature. 

Garish 70s pastiche will never be back in style. 

Least of all as part of a hospice environment. 

An environment where one expects the best in care. The best in comfort. Soothing neutrals, not the migraine-inducing hues of Care Bear vomit. And yet, this is the least of our worries but one that could provide a bit of confidence when it is sorely needed. That could provide a bit of calm in a highly stressful situation. The walls of Health Sciences Centre are salmon pink accented with an algae blue, the coupling of which defies all logic and reasoning in interior design. Good interior design. 

I am becoming angry with a colour. 

It is the only variable in this situation. 

POMP AND CIRCUMSTANCE (PART VI)

After Germany we traveled to Luxembourg, for no other reason than to add another country to the loose itinerary we were winging across Europe. As the Aushfahrt sign symbolizes entrance within Germany's boundaries, Luxembourg welcomes visitors with the biggest potholes this side of Bratislava. Its roads are like the surface of the moon!!! I have no pictures of my stay here, nor any real knowledge to impart about this tiny, mysterious nation, the only evidence of my visit being an IBIS hotel charge on my credit card and memories of eating some truly terrible lasagna. Thankfully we would soon be returning to France, my favourite place on the planet and home to the best cuisine in the world. 

Traveling south, we made the pilgrimage to Rocamadour.

Traveling north, we walked the beaches of Normandy.

Nearing Paris during the end-days of our holiday, I couldn't leave without admiring the gaudy extravagance of Versailles again. Last year I came prepared: wisely pre-booking everything, I made it through the gates with relative ease. This year was a shit show. My father's sore hip made it nearly impossible for him to walk any great distance, so I ushered him to a seated location where he could comfortably wait for me as I purchased tickets. The line outside of the ticket office didn't appear to be too long; my naive estimation was 15 minutes tops…2 hours later, my father assumed I abandoned him. He would also get to experience the longest line on earth though as we both had to stand in ANOTHER one for almost two hours before actually entering the palace. Springtime in Paris is glorious. 

After completing a University of Wisconsin-Madison course on the French Revolution at the end of March, I wanted to reinforce my studies by retracing the actual steps of my current historical muse Marie Antoinette. However, It's hard to have a moment of reflection at Versailles, to soak in the rich history and everyday pomp and circumstance that played out on its stage. One can barely admire the intricate gold leaf craftsmanship without being forcefully shuffled along by other inpatient tourists who spent most of their day waiting to get in. Not much has changed since 1789 it seems; although fighting to secure the perfect selfie is a tad less honourable than social uprising to secure rights for all of mankind. 

The view overlooking the Grand Canal in the gardens of Versailles is one of my top three favourite scenic spots in the world. It is inspiring. Uplifting. Visual perfection. Olfactory nirvana. The perfect spot to enjoy a leisurely lunch (as long as you pack it yourself). As my father and I shared a $21 egg salad sandwich that I waited 40 minutes in line for, the increasingly overcast sky threatened to put an end to this short-lived bliss. He was pretty much done for the day, well exceeding his limit for physical activity, and thus it did seem a suitable time to say goodbye. I would return one day. It saddened me that I couldn't say with certainty if my father would. Right after we left, the sky blackened to shades akin of night and a torrential downpour flooded the cobblestone streets. 


As we solemnly packed our bags into the Renault the next day, exhausted by our month-long adventure but sad to see it end, my dad asked me to find the easiest route to Charles de Gaulle airport wisely wishing to avoid the stress provocation of driving through central Paris. Unfortunately, the GPS in our car didn't map out our path that way (or I was too stupid to program it correctly). Instead of choosing the easiest route, it selected the quickest…which brought us right through the city again. On the downside, my dad experienced his final "warm" European greeting, the driver of a tour bus we accidentally cut off practically hanging out of his window to shout obscenities at us. I assumed they were; Rosetta Stone hasn't included them in their lessons yet. 

The upside was that we got to see the Eiffel Tower one last time. 


After returning from our holiday, my father visited the doctor to get a second opinion on his sore hip. He was originally told the pain was caused by a kidney stone. I felt it might be a fracture. 

After running tests, he was informed that his cancer had spread. 

Entrance to Rocamadour

Entrance to Rocamadour

Our Lady of Rocamadour Shrine

Our Lady of Rocamadour Shrine

Medieval streets of Rocamadour, France. 

Medieval streets of Rocamadour, France. 

My favourite town in France, Bayeux. 

My favourite town in France, Bayeux. 

Banksy street art in Bayeux, France. 

Banksy street art in Bayeux, France. 

Farm in Normandy, France. 
Omaha Beach, Normandy

Omaha Beach, Normandy

Artillery from WWII, Omaha Beach, Normandy. 

Artillery from WWII, Omaha Beach, Normandy. 

Omaha Beach, Normandy

Omaha Beach, Normandy

WWII relics at Gold Beach, Normandy.

WWII relics at Gold Beach, Normandy.

My dad at Gold Beach, Normandy

My dad at Gold Beach, Normandy

Street art at Gold Beach, Normandy.

Street art at Gold Beach, Normandy.

German artillery preserved near Gold Beach, Normandy.

German artillery preserved near Gold Beach, Normandy.

German bunkers near Gold Beach, Normandy.

German bunkers near Gold Beach, Normandy.

Entrance to underground German bunker, Gold Beach, Normandy. 

Entrance to underground German bunker, Gold Beach, Normandy. 

Interior view of underground German bunker, Gold Beach. 

Interior view of underground German bunker, Gold Beach. 

View of Gold Beach from inside German bunker. 

View of Gold Beach from inside German bunker. 

It took nearly 4 hours of waiting in line before we were actually inside the Palace of Versailles. 

It took nearly 4 hours of waiting in line before we were actually inside the Palace of Versailles. 

Artwork inside the Palace of Versailles.
View of the gardens from Marie Antoinette's bedroom. 

View of the gardens from Marie Antoinette's bedroom. 

The gardens at the Palace of Versailles. 
The Grand Canal at the Palace of Versailles. 

The Grand Canal at the Palace of Versailles. 

Alternate view of the Grand Canal (the center fountain is being restored). 

Alternate view of the Grand Canal (the center fountain is being restored). 

The Coronation of Napoleon I. 

The Coronation of Napoleon I. 

Parklife at the Gardens of Versailles.

Parklife at the Gardens of Versailles.

Achtung Baby (part V)

There are no cheesy roadside attractions in Europe informing drivers that they've entered a new country. No official borders to cross (and thus no colourful stamps to add to a passport). It's easy to miss the small, generic continent-wide EU signage and thus one needs to be observant of a sudden change in the language. A shift in the written word. The easiest way to confirm that you've entered Germany for instance, is seeing the "Ausfahrt" sign everywhere. This was clearly a highlight for my father who strained to get a non-blurry photo of one as we drove the Autobahn at speeds exceeding 130km/hr (in the slow lane). If you can't bond with someone over laughing at a flatulence reference, the relationship is probably doomed. 

It's hard to separate the Deutschland of today from the Deutschland of the relatively recent past. One overcast day, we visited the Helmstedt-Marienborn border crossing that once was a checkpoint into Eastern Germany. It was a proper creepy experience as we were the only ones exploring the decrepit structure in silence (including an abandoned morgue) while large "I See You" signs glared down on us from above. It certainly wasn't Disneyland. 

But the Bavarian region could be mistaken for it.

Some of my greatest memories in life are from visiting Disney theme parks. They are truly magical places that can bring out the genuine wonderment of being a child in anyone at any age. My father has told me previously that HIS greatest memory in life was seeing my face light up the first time I saw Cinderella's castle at Walt Disney World. I was five, obsessed with the original Disney princesses and under the belief that one of them actually lived there. Fast forward to this trip in which we visited Neuschwanstein Castle, the original inspiration for many of Walt Disney's creations. Located in a picturesque setting nestled against the start of the Alps, the castle is actually not that old (construction was completed in 1892, although it is still unfinished). The interior and exterior however are straight out of a medieval fairytale. Photographs were not permitted inside, but my favourite room was an interior grotto complete with waterfall. King Ludwig lived large…until he was dubbed "mad" and died mysteriously at the age of 41. 

Helmstedt-Marienborn East Germany border crossing

Helmstedt-Marienborn East Germany border crossing

Helmstedt-Marienborn East Germany border crossing

Helmstedt-Marienborn East Germany border crossing

Helmstedt-Marienborn East Germany border crossing

Helmstedt-Marienborn East Germany border crossing

Helmstedt-Marienborn East Germany border crossing

Helmstedt-Marienborn East Germany border crossing

Sputnik Magazine from September 1988.

Sputnik Magazine from September 1988.

Helmstedt-Marienborn East Germany border crossing

Helmstedt-Marienborn East Germany border crossing

Items smuggled into Eastern Germany include Depeche Mode cassette tapes and LEGO toys. 

Items smuggled into Eastern Germany include Depeche Mode cassette tapes and LEGO toys. 

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

Füssen, Germany

View from Neuschwanstein Castle

View from Neuschwanstein Castle

Front entrance to Neuschewanstein Castle

Front entrance to Neuschewanstein Castle

Court of Neuschwanstein Castle

Court of Neuschwanstein Castle

Neuschwanstein Castle

Neuschwanstein Castle

Castle selfie

Castle selfie

My dad 

My dad 

XXX (part IV)

We spent a few days on the west coast of The Netherlands fighting heavy tourist traffic in the tulip field region. We were lucky to be visiting when they were in full bloom. The rainbow of colour was a spectacular sight. We were also lucky to find available hotel rooms; most were booked solid. For this reason I regret not being able to stay in The Hague, one of the prettiest cities we drove through during our holiday. I hope to return one day. 

My father seemed to enjoy the country as well, and slowly eased his disposition against Amsterdam. He had to. I used my iPad to book a hotel for two nights near the city and it was non-refundable. 

This is the official flag for the city of Amsterdam. Also a good warning for the remaining content of this post. While it does have a rich history and culture, the city is known as the "sex and drugs capital of the world" for good reason: these people are open-minded to the point where I'm certain the word "shame" doesn't exist in Dutch dictionaries. I am by no means prudish but there were times when part of me felt I had stepped off a time machine from Victorian England, shocked and appalled by the wanton hedonism that carried virtually no consequence in this strange land.

The other part of me was envious. 

One person I talked to, a well-dressed professional who claimed to be the accountant for a local football club, described it as such: "We respect our freedom. We enjoy our freedom." 


I checked the weather before we left the hotel. It called for sunny skies and a high of 20 degrees celsius. There was no mention of the cloud of hashish smoke that permanently hangs over the city though or the residual high that one gets while strolling the streets. It is omnipresent. I kept overhearing other tourists (mostly English accents) comment on it as well. I always assumed stoners treated this place as a mecca because marijuana - and only marijuana - was decriminalized. Imagine my surprise at the number of shops openly selling all manner of narcotics. Noticeable by the red/white mushroom signage hanging over their doorways (which, to me, resembled Toad from Super Mario Bros.), these stores would have "menus" in the front windows advertising their wares, potency and any potential side effects. It was like no window shopping I'd ever seen before. Until we went to the Red Light District that is…

The cobblestone streets of Amsterdam, while beautiful, weren't helping my father at all. At one point, instead of farcical praying for the good lord to take him away, he wanted his picture taken with someone dressed up like the Grim Reaper. I refused but was relieved he hadn't lost his sense of humour, no matter how dark. 

You have to possess a sense of humour when visiting here. It's too crazy a place to not laugh at things and situations you find yourself in. Behold my personal case study: I had a craving for Doritos one day and thus entered a general store selling all manner of respectable merchandise from gardening supplies to baby items to housewares. Spying a shelf packed with cookies through the corner of my eye, I assumed that potato chips would be in the general vicinity. I was well surprised when I got there to see sex toys located next to the Chips Ahoy. I'm not sure how the two correlate but viewed it as a missed marketing opportunity. Clearly they should have been placed next to the batteries. 

Another missed marketing opportunity - why the hell aren't Doritos available in Amsterdam of all places? 

It was only 5:00pm but it had been a long, tiring day and my dad was due for a nap. Before leaving however, we had to visit the infamous Red Light District. Seeing it in daylight offered a different perspective, the faces of all the other perverts loitering the area unobscured by low ambient lighting. I expected visitors to be older men (not sightseeing with their daughter) but most were roving packs of 20-something males, ear-to-ear grins plastered on their overly-enthusiastic faces. Despite being relatively early, the workers of the district were present in their windows attempting to entice passerby with the tiniest and sheerist of lingerie. Each venue seemed to have a different specialty; the one that stood out the most advertised something called "electro-sex", which immediately made me think of the movie Eurotrip. I overheard no screaming, but again - it was early 

Coincidentally, walking through the Red Light District was the first time I didn't hear my father say "may the good lord take me". It was worth the trip after all. 

Arriving at Amsterdam Centraal Station

Arriving at Amsterdam Centraal Station

Weird food dispensing machine in Amsterdam

Weird food dispensing machine in Amsterdam

McDonalds in Amsterdam…not to be confused with "coffee shops" in Amsterdam

McDonalds in Amsterdam…not to be confused with "coffee shops" in Amsterdam

Drug store

Drug store

Side effects: crying and screaming for up to 15 hours

Side effects: crying and screaming for up to 15 hours

Amsterdam coffee shop

Amsterdam coffee shop

Amsterdam's flower market

Amsterdam's flower market

Streets of Amsterdam

Streets of Amsterdam

Automobile and boat traffic go side-by-side

Automobile and boat traffic go side-by-side

Red Light District in daylight

Red Light District in daylight

To view more images of Amsterdam, click here

"May the Good Lord Take Me" (part III)

My father's hip pain continued as we left Paris. His gait reminded me of my 85-year-old grandfather. Slow, uneasy. He would often state, half jokingly, "may the good lord take me". I hated hearing this but I was not in a position to judge. I was only watching cancer eat away at someone well before their time, not experiencing the physical, mental and emotional pain of having it firsthand. It was for this reason that I had an idea: it wasn't officially on our itinerary but I felt my father could use a diversion…to Amsterdam. 

He had told me previously about my grandmother, Beatrice, and the pain she endured during her own battle with breast cancer. I was too young at the time to remember this but after his diagnosis last fall he wanted me to know the realities of this situation, that life wasn't always pretty and could get very, very ugly at a moment's notice.

My grandmother died on New Years Day, 1981, at the age of 50. During the final stages of her life, she was prescribed medical marijauna to ease her suffering. Despite this, my father has always been staunchly opposed to narcotics. I did feel however that this could perhaps be a better remedy for his ills than the oxycodene that was prescribed to him; a drug that has since taken a life of its own on the street market where it is often referred to as "hillbilly heroin". He wasn't receptive, but I had a few days (and a few countries) to persuade him to perhaps give alternatives a try. 

If we got out of Paris first. 

I have a tendency to write about foreign washrooms. It can be an icky subject but considering how much time we, as human beings, use them, I feel like I'm prepping/warning people as a gesture of good will. So here it is: do not under any circumstances use the washrooms at Montparnesse Train Station. Just pee your pants. Trust. Despite having enough first-hand knowledge to know better, I still expect that if I have to pay to use facilities that they will be (relatively) clean, contain at least one square of TP and have a water source to clean up with. Nope. You get that maybe 50% of the time in Europe. Even stranger are the urinals that are out in the open. No one needs to see that. Nothing - NOTHING - could top Montparnesse Train Station though. I'm sure there were germs and viruses in there not yet identified by science. Damn my love for iced tea.

We picked up our rental vehicle at Montparnesse Train Station on Sunday because the streets of Paris are relatively quiet then. Our drive within her boundaries was pretty stress-free but that all changed once we got on the Boulevard Périphérique. Bumper to bumper. Vehicles taking up multiple lanes. Those damn motorcycles that seem to come within millimetres of sideswiping everything in their unpredictable path. Despite having a GPS, we had no idea where we were going. We eventually were forced to turn off near Disneyland Paris and within a few hours made it to Belgium (coincidentally where my grandmother's side of the family is from). 

Belgium is an interesting country in the sense that I know nothing about it beyond their ability to craft great beer and chocolate. Perhaps that's all the reputation they need. Achieving perfection in two of the world's favourite exports is quite the feat. We stayed overnight in a town named Mons which I've also never heard of, the vacancy sign on the IBIS being the main draw for our stopover. Mons has a large, beautiful public square wherein instead of a hot dog stand, there's a small trailer selling escargot and champagne. Posh. The next day we drove through Brussels and Antwerp. I'm none the wiser about the country after visiting these cities, but the nation is very pretty. 

Soon enough we were in the Netherlands. Everytime I saw an Amsterdam sign, I dropped the hint that I wanted to go there. My father kept complaining about potential pickpockets, scams and "druggies", failing to to see the irony of where his life was heading. He carried a baggie full of medicine, at least three different prescriptions just for pain relief. Security at the airport didn't even question him; when he mentioned that he had cancer, they just looked on in pity. Everyday at some point, the refrain of "may the good lord take me" carried on. 

Next: Amsterdam

Our rental car, a Renault Captur (I really liked it)

Our rental car, a Renault Captur (I really liked it)

Bar in Mons, Belgium

Bar in Mons, Belgium

Escargot stand in Mons, Belgium

Escargot stand in Mons, Belgium

Mons, Belgium
Mons, Belgium

Mons, Belgium

Street art, Mons, Belgium

Street art, Mons, Belgium

Apartment block in Katwijk, Netherlands

Apartment block in Katwijk, Netherlands

Tulip fields, Netherlands

Tulip fields, Netherlands

War memorial, Katwijk, Netherlands

War memorial, Katwijk, Netherlands

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