Becoming Big in Japan

"Excuse me..."

Normally I would continue walking. Or pretend to only speak and understand French. But the man was holding a clipboard. At the very least, I assumed he was soliciting for charitable donations and I didn't want to be rude. I am Canadian, after all. 

"I am with Tokyo TV and we would like to ask you a few questions. Are you willing to be filmed for television?"

I tried to hide my enthusiasm. HELLS YES, I wanted to be on Japanese TV!!! I wondered if a giant cartoon character was about to sneak up behind me. Or perhaps this would lead to an appearance on one of their infamously wacky game shows. I was up for anything. I demurely responded in the affirmative and inquired as to what type of questions I would be asked. I always like to be prepared and avoid looking like an idiot. 

"Just stand over here and she will ask you the questions."

A petite Japanese woman holding a mic stepped in front of me and made brief introduction. I noted the camera crew already filming to my left. I had no idea what was about to happen. 

"What do you know about soba noodles?"

And thus for the next five minutes, I was interviewed on a subject I know absolutely nothing about. I was on Japanese TV though…and that's all that matters. 


It was a long day. 

Not a hard day, but a long day spent at one of Japan's spa theme parks where I indulged in hours of relaxing in the onsen, getting a massage and facial, and even trying one of those "fish pedicures" where the species garra rufa eat away at the dead skin cells on one's feet (it was awesome, btw). Perhaps I was too relaxed. 

Afterwards at Tokyo Teleport station, I followed the signage to the track that listed Shinjuku, the area where my hotel was located and where I was returning. Shinjuku is the world's busiest train station with over two million people passing through it every single day. It can be absolute chaos. Ordered chaos, as is the norm in a society as structured as Japan, but still too overwhelming for someone from a small prairie town. The crowds had already started forming on the platform. I assumed these fellow passengers were also travelling to the hub to make further connections. I stood in line. A train listing Japanese characters that I couldn't identify and the word "Shinjuku" soon followed. Perfect timing, I thought. I boarded with the masses. 

It was so crowded, I could barely move. I longed for a seat but there was no chance of that happening. Besides, this ride would be at most 20 minutes. I climbed Mount Fuji the previous two days; I could endure this claustrophobic discomfort for that relatively brief time. As the train started moving though, I couldn't help but notice that it wasn't making any stops. Ten minutes passed, then twenty. 

I should be at Shinjuku by now, I thought. 

I stood on my toes and tried to catch a glimpse at the landscape outside. The buildings had become smaller. It was still an endless city, but this view didn't have the technicolour glamour of central Tokyo that I was familiar with. "Where the fuck is this train going?", I thought to myself. 

I turned to a man standing next to me and, shaking my head in defeat, feebly asked "Shinjuku?"

"Ooooooooh noooooo!!!" he cried and pointed in the opposite direction. 

And that's how I ended up in Yokohama. 

Cats, Robots and the Art of Presentation

I hate cats. 

Despite this aversion, I decided to visit a "cat café" in Tokyo, believing it would be as interesting as the canine version I visited in Seoul. Finding one was like finally coming across the needle in the haystack though. Because space is at a premium in Asia, malls are built vertically … and they are all really, really high. In addition, signage is primarily in Japanese which I can't read. This proved especially inconvenient the day I got on the wrong train and ended up in a completely different city. But I digress. While out walking one day, I chanced upon a sign with a bunch of feline silhouettes on it and figured it was either a genuine cat café or a pet shop. Either way, with the temperature reaching 35 degrees celsius by 8:00am, I thought I would check it out if only to enjoy the air conditioning. Sidenote: if you are not planning on climbing Mount Fuji, then avoid visiting Japan during the summer months. The heat is unbearable. 

After getting into a really old, creaky elevator and making my way up, up, up, I entered the Calico Cat Café in Shinjuku. It was not what I expected. Well, it was but it wasn't. There were cats. Plenty of miserable cats giving me the evil eye. They probably could sense my Monty, as they seemed keen to interact with the other people there, which included a number of tourists. I did not feel welcome in their domain though. I wandered about and tried to feign interest but I left after 10 minutes. Cost of this was 1000 Yen (approximately $10 CDN) and I didn't even get a drink. 

I love dogs. 


There has been much press about the astronomical price of certain produce in Japan, such as watermelons selling for $12,000 U.S. While this madness does exist in the high-end department stores – I can confirm seeing a handful of grapes for over 10,800 Yen  ($108.00 U.S.) – it is not the norm. Certain foods are slightly more expensive than in North America, but you don't need to re-mortgage your home to try them.

My favourite place to get lunch is the food hall of Takashimaya, which is located across the street from my hotel. Anything you can imagine is available here. All fresh. All super delicious. The service level and packaging are also second to none. As a designer, I am always impressed with the level of presentation that the Japanese dedicate to everything they do. There is an art to existing here that I wish were more prevalent in North America. 


Now in terms of presentation, the Robot Restaurant is also in a league of its own. I admit, I was initially skeptical. It seemed interesting but also super-cheesy. A part of me was scared to develop seizures at the crazy amount of clashing colours and lights. I was also worried that a robot assault was imminent, as the hostess repeatedly reminded those in the front row (where I was seated) to LEAN BACK in their chairs so as not to get hit during the performance.  

After visiting, all I have to say is that this is the greatest cheese in the universe. The Robot Restaurant is amazing and worth every penny. It is a completely unique Japanese experience; I cannot imagine anything like this anywhere else on the planet. It must be seen to be understood (and even then, it is an enigma), but all I will say is that there are beautiful dancing women, an epic brawl involving a panda, and plenty of robots. Giant, awesome robots. 

Calico Cat Café in Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Calico Cat Café in Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Calico Cat Café in Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Calico Cat Café in Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Tokyo signage (©Deborah Clague)

Tokyo signage (©Deborah Clague)

Lounge act at the Robot Restaurant, Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Lounge act at the Robot Restaurant, Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Sitting in the lounge at the Robot Restaurant, Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

Sitting in the lounge at the Robot Restaurant, Tokyo (©Deborah Clague)

I am in love: 

Tokyo from Above no.1

A view of Tokyo from the 45th floor of the Metropolitan Government Office: 

Park Hyatt, where the film 'Lost in Translation' was filmed. 

Park Hyatt, where the film 'Lost in Translation' was filmed. 

While they haven't taken off in North America, QR codes are still widely used in Asia. This one, at the observation deck of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office, connects to an interactive app giving users background information about the view they are enjoying. 

IMG_2726.jpg

36,000,000 + 1

Japan. Land of the rising sun, Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms, and the future in all its tangible forms. 

Also, land of extremely weird shit. 

I'm surprised I made it here. I didn't think I would. Choosing to stop-over at Calgary International Airport was a mistake I will not repeat. The physical layout of it is, itself, problematic (some of which could be blamed on current construction at the main terminal), but add to that confusing signage and staff that aren't really sure what's happening and it's a wonder more people don't miss their flights. The following is an actual conversation I had with someone employed there: 

"Excuse me, where do I go to make an international, non-U.S. flight connection?"

"Well, ensure you have your U.S. customs forms filled out and stand in this line right here."

"Uhm, but I'm not actually going to the U.S. though. I'm flying direct to Tokyo, Japan on Air Canada. Is this still the right line?"

"You still need to have a customs form filled out."

"Okay, but I'm not sure why. I'm not traveling to the United States."

"Yes, but you are flying over it."

"…"

As this was the fourth person I asked where to make my connection, none of which knew where I should be, my patience was running as short as the time I had. I didn't have the heart to say anything though, as I'm not convinced this person actually knew where Japan was. 

It would take two more people to tell me where to make my connection. 


Tokyo is a shopper's paradise. And as it has been raining non-stop since I've arrived, this is how I've been spending my time thus far.

I spent day one in the Shibuya district which is a great place to watch your money magically disappear. High-end shops, such as Chanel and Burberry, line Omotesandō, a main boulevard comparable to the Champs-Élysées in Paris. While nearby Harajuku showcases the best, comparatively affordable, trends in youth culture. I personally enjoy walking around this area to observe the cutting-edge street-fashion; Tokyoites are famous for being nonconformist. In a city of over 36,000,000 people, it's easy to get lost in the crowd. Style favours the bold. 

Thrift stores line the side-streets of this area. These are a great place to get high-end, rarely worn clothing at a fraction of the price if one is willing to spend time combing the racks for it. For example: I had always wanted a cowichan sweater but they are incredibly expensive in Canada, averaging a couple hundred dollars for a new one. During a previous visit to Japan, I bought one that was in pristine condition at a thrift store for the equivalent of $30 CDN. 

My haul from day one included clothes, a wood iPhone case, clothes, Japanese paper products, clothes, figurines of a Japanese cartoon character that looks like my dog Monty, and more clothes. Let day two begin! 

View from my hotel room at the Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku (©Deborah Clague)

View from my hotel room at the Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku (©Deborah Clague)

Takeshita Street, the gateway to Harajuku (©Deborah Clague)

Takeshita Street, the gateway to Harajuku (©Deborah Clague)

Shopping mall entrance in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

Shopping mall entrance in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

The ultra-contemporary Audi building in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

The ultra-contemporary Audi building in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

Interactive display outside an aromatherapy shop in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

Interactive display outside an aromatherapy shop in Shibuya (©Deborah Clague)

North America needs more "cute" food (©Deborah Clague)

North America needs more "cute" food (©Deborah Clague)

From Daiso, an item that is truly "only in Japan" (©Deborah Clague)

From Daiso, an item that is truly "only in Japan" (©Deborah Clague)

Countdown

In one week, I will be in one of my favourite cities in the world – the megalopolis known as Tokyo. I am beyond excited. With so much to see and do, I will not face a moment of boredom. These are the things I am most looking forward to: 

FOOD

Tokyo's culinary scene is second to none. The best chefs on the planet congregate here to experiment and finesse dishes with both regional and international inspiration. While it can get pricey dining out, there are a lot of alternatives for the frugal traveller such as 7-11. Yes, 7-11. Japanese convenience stores are amazing! As living space in the capital is at a premium, a lot of apartments don't offer much in regards to a kitchen area. The corner store meets this need offering all manner of take-out dishes for the busy salaryman (and thrifty tourist) with no oven, fridge or freezer available. From fresh sushi to spaghetti to stir-fried octopus – which I unwittingly bought the first time I visited the country – there is something for all tastebuds and I can attest to it actually being good. 

Areas where I plan on actually indulging include savouring authentic Kobe beef, exploring Japanese café culture and experiencing their (in)famous robot restaurant: 

DAISO

We've already established that I'm cheap. So it's no surprise that one of my favourite stores is Daiso, the Japanese equivalent of North American dollar stores but with much, MUCH cooler merchandise. They are often multi-level, easy to navigate and contain everything you didn't think you needed in life. Like a banana-cutter. Or a silicone pot holder in the shape of a crocodile. Or a seaweed puncher

GETTING HIGH

At 634m, Tokyo Skytree is the world's tallest self-supporting tower (and second only to the 829m Burj Khalifa in Dubai for tallest structure in the world). An alternative, free (!) option that comes with a great 360 degree view of the never-ending city is the observation deck of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. Although at only 202m, this doesn't seem quite as spectacular. I plan on heading to the top of both. 

View from the 45th floor of Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office (2009 ©Deborah Clague).

View from the 45th floor of Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office (2009 ©Deborah Clague).

GETTING HIGHER

The entire purpose of my holiday is to check off an item on a bucket list I created last summer: climb Mount Fuji on my late father's birthday. In preparation, I've been training, purchasing appropriate gear from hiking boots to stocking up on blister patches, and have been thoroughly reading up on what to expect. Which, at times, has had me questioning my decision to attempt this feat. 

Physically, this may be the most difficult thing I ever do.

Spiritually, it will probably be the most fulfilling. 

ONSEN

If I'm not brought to the hospital (or morgue) because of a heart attack, then I plan on spending the days after my Mount Fuji climb at a Japanese onsen (or hot spring). But not just any onsen. In the Odaiba area of Tokyo, there is an onsen "theme park". One can spend the day pampering themselves in a multitude of ways from traditional aquatic baths of all temperatures (both indoor and outdoor) to silk and sand treatments to something called "fish therapy". Fuck it. I'm doing it all. Because if I can climb the highest mountain in Japan at over 3,776m, then I deserve it. 

I must confess though, part of the training I've been doing has been for this... 

As it is expected that visitors be fully nude when visiting a traditional Japanese onsen, mentally this may be the most difficult thing I ever do. 

Tokyo Max

Tokyo Max poster design. I designed this piece based on my interpretation of the riot and opposing restraint to be found in the world's greatest megalopolis (©Deborah Clague, 2015):