A few moments after squinting to see that far-off bear, there was another spotting. This bear though was closer and striding towards our tundra buggy. With much excitement I reached for my digital camera, a once high-end model that I had set aside for years in favour of the ease and convenience of my iPhone. But on a trip like this, a bucket list excursion, I felt I needed something better. I tested my camera for a week beforehand to ensure it still worked. Fully charged the battery and purchased a new SD card … only to have it crap out on the tundra buggy, my moment to capture the first close encounter of a polar bear fading away as I feebly tried to conduct repair. All of my photos were captured on my phone. Not bad but not great. Thankfully my mind has 4K memory.

Continuing along, we made our way to Polar Bear Point, probably the best location for observing the majestic creature. Frontiers North has a “lodge” at the location made up of several outfitted tundra buggies connected together that include sleeping quarters, a lounge, dining car, and a rooftop deck to observe the aurora borealis. You can literally fall asleep and wake up next to polar bears at your window:

The Frontiers North lodge at Polar Bear Point, Churchill, Manitoba (©2024, Deborah Clague).

Still on our tour though, I overheard our driver communicating with another.

“Einstein is on site” relayed the other tundra buddy driver. I figured it was slang terminology for various members of their team. I could see outside my window there were two workers inspecting a tire at the lodge. One had a shotgun slung over his shoulder. Our driver also noticed and informed us that it is mandatory at all times for workers to be partnered up, with one carrying a weapon. Polar bears were huge but also stealth; he relayed warning about how you may have one circling you, only to realize (too late) that each circle is winding closer and closer. I have also heard that if you see a polar bear at all, it may be fatal; for they have already been stalking you and will attack imminently.

Looking out at the Arctic panorama, it felt like I was in a National Geographic documentary. The beauty was otherworldly. All I could imagine were the epic adventures these shores of Hudson’s Bay have seen. And now here was mine. I could count a handful of polar bears around me. Some wandering. Some lazing by rocks. And then I learned who “Einstein” was.

A mother bear with her two cubs.

E = mother with cubs, squared.