Korea: Travelogue (Part II)

Deborah Clague April 10, 2015

"Do not veer off the tour. If you do, you may encounter a North Korean soldier and they will take you away with the promise of "paradise"."

North Korean vista (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

When I tell people I travel alone, I get one of two reactions:

- Pity: this often comes from people, likely women my age, in the beginning stage of building a family with a mate whose habits haven't quite yet met the threshold of annoyance. Small children may be involved, in which case Disneyworld is the only vacation they can fathom. The reaction is rarely subtle.

- Awe: this often comes from people, likely women older than I, who've surpassed the threshold of annoyance with their mate and have grown increasingly bored in dealing with domestic predictability. Children may be older and in the "why did I have them?" stage. Vacations centre around whatever all-inclusive Mexican resort has the lowest price or, worse, a "staycation". The reaction is rarely subtle.

During my time in Korea, I went on two tours throughout the DMZ region. One was private (which I will get to later), while the other was the standard public tour that most visitors go on. This was my first introduction to the area that is often described as the most volatile in the world. At day's end, however, I felt like I had just been whisked through the world's most surreal theme park.

The day started with a 50-minute bus ride to Imjingak Park, a place built for reflection, prayer and expression of hope for reunification of the Korean peninsula. There are numerous monuments and memorials that provide a sobering reminder of the human suffering during this ongoing conflict. Also located here is the Bridge of Freedom, where prisoners of war were traded after the Armistice was signed in 1953. What really piqued my curiosity though – and which came with no explanation whatsoever – was the on-site amusement park. The faint sound of a merry-go-round carried over the air of an environment one would expect to be carnival-free.

Continuing on, the tour visited the 3rd infiltration tunnel. Discovered in 1978, it was dug by the North Koreans as a passage to secretly invade Seoul. It is stated that over 30,000 soldiers could pass through it every hour. Dark with tight spacing, I was forced to adopt a hunchback gait while exploring its depths before meeting a barbed-wire roadblock, the underground, sedimentary border of North Korea lying just beyond. I felt like Alice down the rabbit hole.

This site very clearly remains provocative and a lightning rod for reminding the world of North Korea's evil. I couldn't help but notice the aggressive, accusatory language of the signage in the area but the American-produced propaganda film we had to watch upon surfacing went beyond over-the-top with its finger-pointing and self-rightousness. During the group bulgogi lunch, it was a hot topic with nearly everyone commenting on how off-putting it was.

The Dora Observatory, offering an initial glimpse of the barren landscape of North Korea, and Dorasan Station, a train station built in hopeful preparation for the future reunification of the Korean peninsula, were also visited on this group tour (most stops allowed for a very condensed 15 minutes of study) but the last thing I will write about is my visit to the Joint Security Area (JSA). This location is often the backdrop for visiting world leaders and other dignitaries and is also where the Korean Armistace Agreement was negotiated. This is the one place where people can technically state they've entered North Korea (although passport stamps were expressly forbidden).

Before officially visiting this iconic landmark of modern history, we were made to sign a waiver indicating our acknowledgement that we were entering hostile territory and wouldn't hold anyone accountable for bodily harm or death (!). We were also given another slideshow – hosted by an American military general stationed in the region – on how evil the north is and reminded not to make any obscene hand gestures or facial expressions, lest our image be used in North Korean propaganda on how the west is littered with imperialist bastards with low morals. As someone who collects communist propaganda art, I must say I was intrigued at the possible meta-ness of it all (but am proud to state, still international incident-free as of April 11, 2015).

A fellow tourist asked the obvious question: "why is this called the demilitarized zone when it is one of the most heavily fortified in the world?" The general wasn't sure. We carried on.

Exiting the building, we were met with a face-to-face showdown with the "enemy" … and the sole soldier standing guard on the steps opposite. Someone in the group excitedly exclaimed "look, a North Korean!" and the entire moment went from being full of intrigue to comically depressing. This was theatre. This was a zoo. I felt like a huge asshole. While people starved and lived an existence of obscurity just miles inland, the climax of our day was gawking at a minion of one of the most repressive regimes in history as though he were a unicorn. I hoped the tour would provide more insight on relating the struggle of the average citizen imprisoned in the north rather than brandishing an entire nation as iniquitous, but that probably doesn't sell.

At the end, we even exited through a gift shop.

The quote from the top was reiterated as a warning by both tour guides I took through the DMZ.

To book this DMZ tour, click here.

Entrance to 3rd Infiltration Tunnel (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

South Korean military at the Dora Observatory (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

The Dora Observatory (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Buddhist statuary at the Dora Observatory (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Dorasan Station (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Imjingak Park (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Amusement park at Imjingak Park (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Bulgogi lunch (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Security briefing at the JSA (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

South Korean soldier at the JSA (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Technically standing in North Korea (©Deborah Clague/Oblada.com)

Korea: Travelogue (Part I)

Deborah Clague April 9, 2015

"What do you do if you encounter a North Korean soldier?"

"We kill them."

The young male soldier, his face still riddled with adolescent acne, answered my query with not an iota of hesitation. It was a striking response. One that would be edited and refined in North America until the wording was deemed befitting for consumption by the general, non-military populace. I knew my travels to South Korea would be eye-opening for a number of reasons, however, this glimpse into life in a region still technically at war was definitely the most powerful.

But I'm getting ahead of myself.

I travelled to South Korea for a number of reasons. Visiting the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) only one of them. As a designer, part of my job is to keep up with trends in consumption, marketing, style, and technology. As one of the world's fastest-growing economies - and a nation that is actively funding and promoting its own creative industries - South Korea was an ideal destination to immerse myself in for a few weeks. I find that getting an education through travel is much more insightful than traditional means; it is the ultimate hands-on education in life.

The second reason is that I love Asia. I love the people. I love the culture. I love the food. I have never been disappointed with this part of the world.

The third reason was ignited last summer after my father lost his short battle with cancer. I had always been fascinated by the Korean peninsula and wanted to travel there with him. He refused and warned against it with his usual subtlety: "you don't want to go up there as long as that nut job is in power". The nut jobs, unfortunately, are plentiful in positions of power but seem to be especially bounteous in this particular geographic location north of the 38th parallel.

After his passing, my father's words rang through my head … but I also couldn't help think about opportunities that may be missed by failing to seize the day. By regrets later in life from not being true to oneself. By the sheer and absolute boredom of remaining stationary.

By the sheer and absolute boredom of remaining stationary in the middle of nowhere.

So I booked a ticket to Seoul. And now here I am. One week in and just returned from a military camp where I observed through binoculars North Korean soldiers monitoring me through binoculars. This is easily one of the most memorable times of my life.

To be continued...

Daffodil Month

Deborah Clague April 1, 2015

Everyone knows someone affected by cancer.

According to a national survey conducted by Angus Reid, only 49% of people with cancer search for further information on the disease after being diagnosed, while only 19% looked into support services. 56% of individuals do not feel properly equipped to help themselves, a family member or other loved one who has been diagnosed.

Each year, during the month of April, the Canadian Cancer Society tries to change this by raising awareness and support for those living with the disease. You can join the fight by purchasing a daffodil pin or making a donation. Every little bit helps and hopefully one day, there will be a cure.

Death of Target

Deborah Clague March 29, 2015

When Target entered the Canadian retail landscape in 2013, I was excited. I had hoped that the cross-border shopping experience would be replicated with affordable, unique items not easily found at the competition. Thus on opening day, I was there. Something felt amiss though. I overheard several people comment on how it was just a "new Zellers". It would get better, I thought, but it never really did. The brand had overextended themselves and underestimated the Canadian marketplace.

On January 15, 2015, Target Canada announced it would be filing for bankruptcy and closing all of its retail operations. It would be the first of many retailers to make this announcement in the coming months.

On March 29, 2015, with five days left until closing, I photographed the death of Target:

Thirty Something: Vignette no.2

Deborah Clague March 28, 2015

I hopped in the backseat of the cab. A protective shield acted as a barrier between myself and the driver. These weren't present in taxis roaming the streets of the city I currently live in. However, the city I currently live in does not have the level of crime that plagues my hometown. I felt disconnected, but it was just as well; cab drivers can be quiet or entirely too talkative.

The commute – my regular commute – from the airport to my childhood home would be 40 minutes long winding through industrial zones, past the latest crop of highly congested retail outlets, to a residential area replete with mature trees, manmade lakes and a rich French/Metis history. My parents chose a physically- and spiritually-lush place to raise me. Although returning now brought a flood of bittersweet memories.

The cab driver eventually did initiate conversation. This started out with the type of generic universal dialogue that strangers fill the air (and time) with, but eventually evolved into one of the most profound colloquies I've ever had.

The driver appeared to be roughly the same age as myself and shared much of the same goals, struggles and heartbreak that I was going through. As many in their 30s can relate to. The frank discussion covered life aspirations that seemed to be eternally out of grasp, and ended, upon pulling up in front of my mother's house, our final destination, on the topic of parental loss and the hardship of faking enough strength to emotionally carry remaining family from their own despair. My father died last summer after an unexpected and far too brief battle with esophageal cancer. My driver's father died five years ago from a sudden heart attack.

He was not present.

And did not get to say "goodbye".

All of his family reside in India.

As I exited the taxi cab, I gave my farewell to the driver and told him to phone his mother. He smiled warmly, then watched and waited as I left to greet my own.

All that weekend, I regretted sharing everything with this exceptional stranger but our names.

March Book Recommendations:

Deborah Clague March 24, 2015

WILD: FROM LOST TO FOUND ON THE PACIFIC COAST TRAIL
Written by Cheryl Strayed

The release of the film piqued my curiosity about 'Wild' by Cheryl Strayed. The tale follows a narrative that mirrors my own recent circumstance: unexpected loss of a parent from cancer, dealing with the aftermath of grief, depression and the "art" of distraction, and experiencing a robust desire to find one's self through travel and adventure. Cheryl's journey took her on an 1,100 mile hike following the Pacific Coast Trail which extends from California to Washington State in the western United States. Though inexperienced (and naive), she was determined and combated record snowfall, snakes, bears and gathering Deadheads to successfully complete the trek. If nothing else, the book was incredibly inspirational.

Favorite line: "The father's job is to teach his children how to be warriors, to give them the confidence to get on the horse and ride into battle when it's necessary to do so. If you don't get that from your father, you have to teach yourself."

To buy this book, click here.

THE REAL NORTH KOREA: LIFE AND POLITICS IN THE FAILED STALINIST UTOPIA
Written by Andrei Lankov

North Korea has always fascinated me; Its history a narrative rife with corruption, criminal activity and importunate bravado far exceeding rank. This book documents the hermit kingdom's troubled past and even more tragic present, from the machiavellian antics of Kim Jong-Il and the famine of the 90s to the reign of his son Kim Jong-Un and their development into a nuclear state. The author, a Russian scholar and university professor who has lived in North Korea and now resides in Seoul, also theorizes several solutions for reunification that may present themselves in the future (none of which will be easy or, unfortunately, avoid further conflict).

Favorite line: "Visitors and richer Pyongyangites – some 10 to 15 percent of the new middle class – can feast on numerous delicacies in a multitude of posh private and semi-private restaurants that have sprung up around the city in recent years. Most new restaurants have private rooms, which are used for the closed banquets of the bureaucrats and the new rich. In some case, they do not limit themselves to gastronomical pleasures but double as elite brothels. For the average North Korean denizen, the upmarket restaurants are prohibitively expensive, dinner costing some $5 to $10 (excluding alcohol). To put this into context, the average monthly salary of a university professor now equals some 80 cents."

To buy this book, click here.

Designer Magazine

Deborah Clague March 23, 2015

Check out the Winter 2014 issue of Designer Magazine to read an article I wrote on being deployed to Vietnam:

ROK Checklist:

Deborah Clague March 17, 2015

Over the past few weeks, I've been finalizing arrangements for my trip to the Republic of Korea which will kick off the Year of Adventure™ I aim to have, living life to the fullest while celebrating the unbounded spirit of my late, beloved father. There are many things I want to do during my brief time there … and many items that I feel are essential to making it an enjoyable holiday. Including:

• Travel journal to record my thoughts. Illustrated by Gustove Doré. Selected based upon the experiences of the day:

• Reading material:

• Sleeping pills. There is a 24-hr food market a few blocks away from my hotel that should keep me occupied while I adjust to the 15 hour time difference. If required, these will aid the process.

• Imodium. There is a 24-hr food market a few blocks away from my hotel that should keep me occupied as I partake in a quest to sample every dish of Korean street food. Including things I can't identify. Including things I CAN identify and still willingly choose to indulge in.

• Western snacks. It's been my experience that eastern junk food is not as stupendously sweet as its western counterpart. Two weeks doesn't seem like a long time, but I am not willing to go through the withdrawal.

• One Million dollars. Or, more accurately, Won. The conversion equals approximately one thousand in Canadian funds. I still feel baller though.

I'm nearly set. Let the countdown begin...

1986

Deborah Clague March 9, 2015

Grade 1.
Reading. Writing. Addition. Subtraction.
Disney. Barbie. Easybake. Hockey.
You can play with the girls and keep up with the boys.
Neon. Cassette deck stereo.
Duran Duran playing on the radio.

This kid has no idea what lies ahead.

But she dreams big.

INFOGRAPHIC: Seoul

Deborah Clague March 6, 2015

To download the full-res version of this infographic, click here.