Dubai Part II

The first thing I noticed when traveling via taxi from DXB to Jumeriah, which is where my hotel was located, was how fast everyone drove. Sheikh Zayed Road, the main artery cutting through the United Arab Emirates and Dubai's core in particular, is an eight-lane highway (each direction) where everyone seems to be traveling at a minimum of 140km/hr. 

The second thing I noticed was how far-spread out the city seemed.

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After initially being dropped off at the wrong hotel, we checked into the proper one a few blocks away. Our earlier friction had all but dissipated; we were in Dubai, wide-awake and ready to explore (even though it was late). The night air remained muggy and the streets had minor activity of mostly groups of men loitering about. I had previously read that males outnumber females 8 to 1 in the city, a very lopsided equation that is surely the result of the construction boom and foreign labour needed to fuel it. Knowing this, at the start of our walk I paid no attention to the remainder of my surroundings. My focus was elsewhere. 

We made our way to Mall of the Emirates which appeared to still be open. The act of simply crossing the street was problematic though as multiple lanes of speeding traffic circled the building. We figured we'd had a long day and were probably just missing where we were supposed to enter from. Abandoning this attempt, we decided to try again the following day. After all, we'd have plenty of time to shop.  

Walking back to the hotel, I now looked closer at where the hubs of male activity seemed to be congregating and noted a disproportionate number of massage parlours in the area. I'd add quotation marks to those words, but they could very well be reputable businesses. 

Reputable massage parlours that completely covered any visibility through their windows. 

Reputable massage parlours that were open past midnight. 

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The following morning, I noticed a high volume of business cards for these massage parlours on all of the parked vehicles in the area. Some specifically advertised their "Russian staff". 

Dubai Part I

It has never been easier to present the most perfect version of one's self to the world. Through social media and the ubiquitous selfie, our lives have become seemingly unblemished. Our streams – the modern memoir for a society pressed for time and attention-span – showcase a happy population, affluent in wealth and social connections, who have mastered their angles. Accuracy is a moot point; appearance is everything. 

What happens when an entire city represents itself this way? 

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Dubai has become a major international player over the past two decades. Its economy was originally built on revenues from the oil industry, but today – in an attempt to diversify its future – tourism has taken the focus. While doing research for this trip, there was no end to unique experiences that could only be found in the region from skiing in the desert to visiting man-made islands shaped like the continents of the globe. It certainly intrigued me (as I'm sure it does for the estimated 13.2 million international visitors that descend upon the city each year). My personal motivation for this trip though was to retain insight and cultural understanding into a region of the world that I have never visited before. An area with vastly different laws, beliefs and treatment of women than my own. As a solo female traveller, this would indeed be interesting. 

A friend who had never travelled internationally spent the first six days of a two-week excursion with me. The day of departure we were both excited for the adventure that awaited. But first, a long (very long) sixteen+ hours in the air. As we would be arriving at night, I decided to stay awake for as long as possible observing our flight path as it inched forward while traveling over the Atlantic through Europe and then parts of northern Africa. Flying over the desert felt like floating aimlessly in the universe; the blackness was dense and all-consuming.  

Upon arrival, I received a VISA and made my way towards the luggage pick-up. But first, another security check. The United Arab Emirates is the only country I've been to where one must pass through security before being allowed entry. I had nothing to declare or hide but that didn't stop my mind from worrying if I had missed something ... if, perhaps, something I carried that was completely innocuous in Canada was, in fact, a banned item in the UAE. The country does have strict laws, of which I've read up-and-down, side-to-side, but that never entirely foils human error or the fact that I can be a complete idiot. 

My "Louis Vuitton" keepall bag, which I'm genuinely surprised has survived the past decade since I purchased it at a Chinese blackmarket for roughly $20, made it through along with all of its contents. And so we made our way to collect our luggage. A duty-free store adjacent to this location captured my friend's attention: 

"Deb - there is booze!!! We need to get some!"

Oi. It hadn't even been an hour. I reminded my friend of what I'd read. That in order to obtain alcohol in the UAE, one must obtain a liquor license*. We didn't have one. Nor did I have plans to apply for one. Besides, she would just have to survive six days without wine. Surely not an impossible feat. The worst case scenario would be paying the price at our hotel's bar. 

"But there's a blonde woman in there buying wine..."

I didn't budge on my stance that we shouldn't indulge. "I don't care, this isn't Canada."

This exchange repeated ad nauseum as we awaited arrival of our luggage. Where the hell were our bags? My friend grew visibly irritated with my conservatism, while I grew exasperated with her teenage rebellion. As one can observe, I am the more disciplined individual in our opposites-attract friendship. And by "disciplined", I mean that I am terrified of getting in trouble and being thrown in a foreign prison. Hence the stick up my ass. There will always be endearment between us though, even when we annoy the shit out of each other.

We unite in balance.

Just not at the moment. 

After an hour – AN HOUR – of standing around waiting for our luggage, the bags were finally spotted. For a country that aims to focus on tourism as its main economic sector, I was surprised at this inefficiency. But this was only the beginning.

Adventure awaits. 

*While I was correct in that a license is needed to procure alcohol in the country proper, the duty-free shop at arrivals in DXB is the one place to sidestep this prior to entry. 

When in Dubai...

Fauchon. Legendary Parisian gourmet food shop with branches in major cities around the world. Purveyor of some of the best baked goods on the planet. My personal favorite is the classic French eclair, an indulgence that is amplified in Dubai by being draped in real edible gold (inside was filled with salted caramel):

Fillings

I hate going to the dentist. Not for the typical reason of real or imagined pain, but rather the judgement I always face from the dental assistant. Like Groundhog Day, our interaction has become rebarbative and predictable. After socially-mandated graces, the assessment: 

"You have a lot of fillings."

I don't even think I have a higher than average count of them (at least according to my very brief, unscientific Google research) but her reminding me of this with no further professional advice or edict does nothing to change the situation. I am aware of the fact that I have a few fillings. I am also aware of the fact that I love sugary sweets and am addicted to them like the legal heroin they are. Praise modern dentistry for allowing me to continue this unhealthy relationship while retaining gleaming pearly whites! And so, as we perform this "foxtrot" year in and year out, I revert to the blood of my stiff-lipped British forefathers, state an emphatic "alright" and sink into the dentist's chair while silently wishing for a cloak of invisibility. 

When my dentist arrives, the man with all the sharp tools and instruments, I am elated. He's a friendly, interesting dude. Knowledgable. Never condescending. Well travelled. On my most recent visit, we discussed Dubai. He's visited a few times. Gave advice on what to see and what to do and then offered to introduce me to a contact of his living there.  

A contact that, by sheer chance, operates a business in the design field! 

A contact that wants to show me "the real Dubai"!!

A contact that may, perhaps, know someone who will let me drive their Ferrari!!! 

My world continues to get smaller. And the dentist's office proves a place of business beyond restoring enamel and making me feel guilty for eating too many Mars bars. 

Resuming countdown...

P.S. - no cavities!!!!!

Dubai Bucket list

I am excitedly counting down the days until I take flight to the playground of the middle east, Dubai. Before any trip, I diligently research and daydream about what I plan to do. For this excursion, there is just SO much that I don't know how to whittle it down (although I'm sure my wallet will decide that for me). Here then is my ultimate Dubai bucket list: 

1. Marvel at the galaxies above from the pitch dark of the desert. The one excursion I booked well in advance was a desert safari. From this seemingly hostile, barren environment arose the great, ultra-modern meccas of Abu Dhabi and Dubai. It will be impressive to observe this stark contrast of nature vs. man's attempts to tame it but I will be truly blown away if my "north of 49" self can survive the day without getting heatstroke. I do not take to the sun well, which should make this entire trip rather interesting. Thankfully there will be plenty to occupy my mind from riding a camel, "snowboarding" down dunes, enjoying a feast under the setting sun, smoking shisha, and learning how to bellydance from a pro. 

2. Haggle at a souq. In Dubai, there is a spice souq, a perfume souq, a textile souq and a gold souq. I plan on visiting them all (even the fish souq!), hopefully returning with items to fill my suitcase with (save for the fish souq!). After visiting so much of Asia, where I mastered the fine art of haggling with a steely, unwavering gaze, I feel quite confident in my ability to negotiate. And if ever in doubt that I'm not about to take home a bottle of pure jasmine oil at a price I can part with, I will use the one tactic sure to garner sympathy: "But I get paid in Canadian dollars".

3. Ski. Despite living in a climate where snow covers the ground for six months of the year, I have never been downhill skiing. Actually, that is a bit of a lie. In junior high, we had the mandatory field trip to the only "mountain" (né slightly elevated hill) within close proximity to my hometown. During my introductory lesson, I witnessed a classmate wipe out and severely hurt themselves. It was at that exact moment I decided sitting in the chalet and sipping hot chocolate was more to my liking. While in Dubai, I do plan on visiting Ski Dubai. Perhaps I will ski. Maybe I will drink gourmet cocoa. For SURE, I will escape the heat. 

4. Photograph the architecture. In another life, one in which I had the focus and drive to sit through many more years of schooling, I would be an architect. Whenever I visit the great cities of the world, this is what captures my imagination; what spurs inspiration for my own, relatively meagre in comparison, art. Architecture is the backdrop of our lives and sets the tone of a city. Dubai is clearly making a statement with theirs; that they are innovative, bold and want to be perceived as one of the world's greatest centres of socio and economic activity. 

5. Drive a Ferrari. It doesn't have to be plated in gold. But if I had a choice in colour, maybe green. Shiny, metallic green. This is my daydream item. Probably not going to happen, but if I really wanted it to, I could make my way over to Ferrari World in Abu Dhabi for an afternoon of racing and riding the world's fastest roller coasters. 

Now back to counting down the days...

Roar!

Been doing some research for my upcoming trip to Dubai. Pets there sure don't look like Monty:

Bang!

On New Year's Eve, 2014, I made the decision to boldly live the upcoming year by challenging myself to do things I normally wouldn't. Or couldn't. I dubbed it my "year of adventure" and it has been such. I visited the most heavily militarized border in the world. I climbed a mountain. I've been an active student in learning the ways of the world through my heart, mind and soul. And so, I now feel it needs to end with a bang. 

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I often visit aircanada.com to research fares, even if I'm not planning on going anywhere. It's a great distraction; for someone who daydreams as much as I do, this habit offers plenty of inspiration. This particular day, I decided to look into a place that has intrigued me for years but which I've never actively considered because of the astronomical VISA fees associated with visiting it. It was always financially out-of-reach. 

But VISA fees for Canadians were recently lifted. 

And holy shit - there was a fare the week of my birthday (convenient) that wasn't much more than traveling to Eastern Canada. I bought it on the spot and would sort out the details later. Spontaneity is also a trait I've developed and embraced over the past year. Keeps life exciting. 

My best friend visited that evening. As usual, wine flowed as we discussed our careers, men and other nonsense. I told her about my news. About my final destination. She went wide-eyed and instantly proclaimed "Ive always wanted to go there. I'm coming with you!". 

And with that, two BFFs are now preparing for the vacation of a lifetime in Dubai. 

Bang!