Your Occasional Monty

It would be impossible for me to love this little guy any more than I do. My wee Monty was meant to be a part of my life. He is the perfect faithful companion through thick and thin, always full of exuberant joy and wearing a contagious smile.  

Also, he kinda looks like a seal. 

Mind the Gap

Upon reviewing the revised bucket list I wrote for myself back in 2014, I feel like I've accomplished much. I've climbed a mountain. I've learned how to cook at least one dish. I'm taking French classes (still in hopeful, wistful preparation of that dream move). 

I write. I photograph. I create. I savour. I share. 

I live. 

What I contribute to the wall of noise might not always find an audience, but that is never the intention. My art, in whatever form it takes, is always primarily for me. It is a living journal of moments and memories that have shaped who I am, chronicling people and places that I never want to let time erase. 

After a year of adventure, I now contemplate where inspiration will next influence my life. 

I have a pretty good understanding and confidence of self. But after times of great reminisce, I now want to learn more of my past. Of his past. Of their past.

The Clague lineage.

London is calling. 

Dubai Part X

I wish I would have had more to write about regarding my holiday in Dubai but ... I've been struggling. Despite its showiness – despite its commitment to extreme opulence, grandeur and the biggest/tallest everything – I found the city lacking in practicality, culture and, ultimately, heart. 

I felt like I traveled half way around the world to visit things I could see in my backyard. Mind you, they were bigger, taller, SHINIER things than what are in my background, but still. I didn't depart with a positive lasting impression. I have no yearning to return. 

At the end of the day, it ranks near the bottom of the list when it comes to my favorite destinations. 

Maybe I'm just bitter I didn't get to drive a shiny, metallic green Ferrari. 


I spent my final days away from the towering, glittering skyscrapers of which the city wants to be known and instead strolled through the traditional markets of Deira, repeatedly riding the abra and feasting at the Arabian Tea House Café, my favorite restaurant in Dubai. It was a relaxing time spent wandering about at my leisure, observing and participating in the theatre of the streets of the Old City. 

At one of the market stalls, I was drawn in by a beautiful teal embroidered robe. I paused to admire it and ended up with an invitation by the owner to share chai and traditional sweets. I accepted the offer, fully aware it was a ploy to get me to buy but also an opportunity for me to gain insight on real life in the U.A.E. In between haggling on price, we talked. 

I learned that the owner moved to Dubai from northern India after graduating with a degree in Business. The market stall he operated was a venture he planned to operate for just a few years, earning enough profit to help his family with back home. He was eager to return to India though. The original allure of the big city had dissipated. Dubai was expensive. The promise of riches it teased with was not as forthcoming as originally believed. The hustle-and-bustle was not for him; nor was the fact that, despite contributing to the economy and development of the nation, he would forever be an outsider there. I told him of my experiences over the previous two weeks and, after listening intently, he welcomed me to visit his home province one day to be shown real hospitality.

After an hour in the shop, I eventually got the robe, and a second one, along with a beautiful cashmere scarf for the price I was seeking. 

Dubai Creek (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Dubai Creek (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Dubai Creek (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Dubai Creek (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Iranian Mosque, Bur Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Iranian Mosque, Bur Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Detail of Iranian Mosque, Bur Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Detail of Iranian Mosque, Bur Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Burj Khalifa, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Burj Khalifa, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Burj Khalifa, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Burj Khalifa, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Burj Khalifa, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Burj Khalifa, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Tim Hortons in Dubai Mall (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Tim Hortons in Dubai Mall (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Old Souq, Bur Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Old Souq, Bur Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Owner of shop I had tea with (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Owner of shop I had tea with (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Arabic chicken dinner at the Arabian Tea House (©Deborah Clague, 2016) 

Arabic chicken dinner at the Arabian Tea House (©Deborah Clague, 2016) 

Stray cat in Deira (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Stray cat in Deira (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Billboards of Emirati leaders line the streets and highways (©Deborah Clague, 2016) 

Billboards of Emirati leaders line the streets and highways (©Deborah Clague, 2016) 

I couldn't escape camels. This smoking lounge was at my layover in Frankfurt Airport (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

I couldn't escape camels. This smoking lounge was at my layover in Frankfurt Airport (©Deborah Clague, 2016)

Recommended: Prisma

If you're tired of traditional photo filters, there is a new app that can help take your selfies to the next level. Prisma turns images into works of art in the style of Mondrian, Lichtenstein or even modern anime. The results are pretty amazing. 

It is currently only available for iOS, with an Android version slated for release at the end of the month. You can download it here

DUBAI PART IX

I've debated writing about some of the negative experiences both my friend and I encountered while in Dubai, but I'm not sure what purpose it would serve. There are good and not-so-good people everywhere. A terrible experience can be had abroad or at home. Besides, the scariest situation I've found myself was in my favorite place in the world, France.

Reading outdoors by my lonesome in Paris, several German men approached and surrounded me. Their harassment escalated from a seemingly innocent "hello, bonjour" to having them repeat the phrase "____ my ____, bitch" over and over again for what seemed like an eternity (but was probably closer to around three minutes). I sat still, my eyes lasered on the book I was then pretending to read, deep in frantic contemplation about what I would do if their words evolved to action. After getting no response, they finally departed (perhaps assuming I was deaf and taking pity on me). I left the scene as quickly as I could. 

Men don't really have to deal with this while traveling.

Or in life, in general. 

I suppose my surprise with Dubai was that the harassment came from women and not men. 


My first day alone, I decided to hit up the beach. From my hotel, there was a free shuttle to Jumeriah which is the public swimming area close to the Burj Al Arab. It was one of THE most spectacular stretches of sand I had ever seen. The water was a stunning aqua-marine and crystal clear, which was great because I have severe paranoia about swimming in open bodies of water where I can't see what's brushing up against me. Surprisingly, there were very few people on it. I had my own vast personal space, the closest beach bum near me was at least 100 yards away. In lieu of this paradise, everyone seemed to congregate at Atlantis Resort. 

A few days prior, my friend and I visited the resort which is located on the edge of Palm Island, a modern marvel of marine construction that has added 520 sq.km of private beachfront to the city of Dubai. It's pretty amazing for something constructed by man solely of sand and rock; from the air, I imagine you get a real sense of scale. From ground-level though, all that is visible are endless multi-million dollar residences and hordes of tourists clamouring to cool down at the Atlantis waterpark and/or grab a bite to eat at a restaurant bearing Gordon Ramsay's name.

The two things that stood outmost for me were: 

1) This creepy Michael Jackson doll in one of the gift shops:

2) The foreign workers toiling in the heat. Much has been written about the UAE, its lack of basic human rights for migrant workers, and various labour injustices that some characterize as modern day slavery. I cannot, for certain, state that anyone I observed faced this plight. But I was cognizant that much of this future megalopolis was built off the backs of those leaving their loved ones behind to seek greater opportunity, often propelled by blind hope and faith, and often not being allowed to integrate into the place they are serving. 


Rumour: you will never see a published picture of the Burj Al Arab from the vantage point of the Persian Gulf because its construction forms the largest crucifix in the Middle East (a detail not realized until near completion). 

Atlantis Resort at Palm Island, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016). 

Atlantis Resort at Palm Island, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016). 

On Palm Island, Dubai's skyline in the background (©Deborah Clague, 2016). 

On Palm Island, Dubai's skyline in the background (©Deborah Clague, 2016). 

Jumeriah Beach, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016). 

Jumeriah Beach, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016). 

Jumeriah Beach, the Burj Al Arab in the background (©Deborah Clague, 2016). 

Jumeriah Beach, the Burj Al Arab in the background (©Deborah Clague, 2016). 

Street art, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016). 

Street art, Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016). 

DUBAI PART VIII

The first time I managed to actually get into Mall of the Emirates, I braved several lanes of traffic that didn't bother to slow down or even remotely give a fuck in terms of allowing me safe passage. As previously complained about, getting around Dubai is a nightmare as a pedestrian. Crosswalks don't exist, but even if they did, I'm not sure drivers would actually stop. Which, come to think of it, isn't that different from where I live now. Moot point, then. But I've been to many cities where traffic was chaos. The difference here and with, say, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam, is that in other cities I've felt like an obstacle to overcome by the driver. In Dubai, I felt like a major inconvenience to all. 

Mall of the Emirates is like any mall, really. There is a food court with fast food chains from all over the world. There are numerous fast fashion brands offering economical options to contrast the high-end boutiques filled with the latest Parisian creations. The only difference is the massive indoor ski hill, which is uniquely one-of-a-kind (they didn't honour the free pass my hotel gave me, so regrettably – and bitterly – there won't be any review). The anchor store at Mall of the Emirates is Carrefour, which is basically a French Wal-Mart. It definitely had the most foot traffic in terms of foreigners, both expat and tourist. This is also where I spent most of my time and coins stocking up on uniquely flavoured potato chips, souvenirs and books. At check-out, I received a coupon for 50% off plastic surgery at a local clinic. It was rather odd but not entirely surprising. Dubai is one of the most superficial places I've ever visited.  

On the way out of the mall, I ran into several men trying to sell me an iPhone 6. As I said "no, thank you" to one, another would pop up. I wasn't really bothered. My mind was focused on why they were there though; it became apparent that my earlier route of jay-walking across several lanes of busy, high-speed traffic WAS the only way into the mall and that it why they congregated there.  


DID YOU KNOW?
An unwashed vehicle in the U.A.E. will be subject to a dh500 fine (approximately $200 CDN). 

Hanging clothes from one's balcony will be subject to a dh500 - dh1500 fine (approximately $600 CDN). 

Eating, drinking or chewing gum on public transport will be subject to a dh100 fine (approximately $35 CDN). 


After a week that went by in a flash, my friend departed back to Canada. It was bittersweet. I normally travel solo and was looking forward to the adventure my subsequent time alone would bring, but she also brought a je ne sais quoi to the journey that I otherwise wouldn't have had. This was her first international excursion. A major one too. While Dubai had its challenges, her curiosity and genuine excitement at experiencing new things allowed me to view things in a different way as well. We may be polar opposites, but our perspectives are complementary. 

At the metro station near our hotel, we exchanged a hug and she gave me her parting words: 

"Don't worry. You look like a journalist."

In a country where women's rights and freedom of speech are often called into question, this wasn't entirely reassuring. 

Ski Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016).

Ski Dubai (©Deborah Clague, 2016).

Coupon received at Carrefour, Mall of the Emirates (©Deborah Clague, 2016).

Coupon received at Carrefour, Mall of the Emirates (©Deborah Clague, 2016).

I should be a spokesperson for Doritos. The yogurt and herb mix was amazing. 

I should be a spokesperson for Doritos. The yogurt and herb mix was amazing.