Hong Kong Part I

Ten years ago, my father and I backpacked around mainland China. It was an experience I had idealized in my head but in actuality wasn't fully prepared for; I was exposed to so many different sights, sounds, flavours, experiences and ideologies that mid-way through, I became overwhelmed and quit. I wanted to go home. To appease me, my father instead booked an extended stay at a nice hotel in Chengdu and we remained stationary as "locals" for awhile. It worked but in the end this cost myself the opportunity for total immersion and understanding of difference. I've taken a new approach with subsequent excursions and now embrace being uncomfortable to a certain extent. The growth I've had in the last ten years is proof of that. For instance, I don't think my partner and I would have made it otherwise—he's a doctorate scientist from Kerala and I'm an artist from the Canadian prairies. It's not just a blending of cultures, but of mindsets. We make it work. 

In the decade since that trip, there has been much change in my life. I moved to a new city and transitioned from entrepreneurship to a fulfilling career in education. Added to my family and cut ties to other branches of it. Made lifelong friends and kissed unforgettable loves goodbye. I learned to truly live for the moment but also take time to reflect on (and respect) the past lest it haunt me. And then there was the single most important thing to happen in my life: I lost my father, best friend and perennial travel partner.

In a way, this trip marks a bookend for the period. It is a return to a place that kicked my ass ten years ago. It is an acquiesce for it to kick my ass again, if needed. My father would appreciate this. May he be with me in spirit. 

And may the next ten years provide as much adventure and evolution to my life. Let's go. 

Me and a friend at the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding (©Deborah Clague, 2007). 

Me and a friend at the Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding (©Deborah Clague, 2007). 

The Worst Day of My Life (Part III)

The train rolled on through Sichuan province. Hills becoming mountains and mountains leading to shangri-la (Chengdu is known as the "gateway to Tibet"). My roommates departed well before we arrived at 11:00pm. Stretching my legs and inhaling (relatively) clean air after that seemingly endless journey was one of the greatest feelings ever. I got my luggage and hit a bold stride through the train station to the front waiting area which was a pedestrian plaza. There were hundreds...no, probably thousands of people waiting for loved ones and loitering around in general. The sea of humanity was somewhat hard to navigate through, but using a neon hotel sign in the distance as a beacon, I marched forward until *BOOM*. 

I mentioned previously how there are no rules to the road in China and people frequently drive in places where they shouldn't. For pedestrians this can be exceptionally dangerous considering one doesn't have a giant metal shield also surrounding them. And so I was struck. Not by a car, but by some dude on a motorcycle. I fell on my arse, half in shock, but managed to look up to see a figure hovering over me and yelling. Angrily. Good thing I didn't read that section of my English-Mandarin dictionary. And then he took off. Not bothering to help, not bothering to wait to see if I was okay (which I was). But the incident proved to be the icing on the cake fueling my own anger at being sick, at being uncomfortable, at having this country bring me to my knees.

I got up and headed towards the hotel but my series of unfortunate events wasn't over yet. Another thing I would quickly learn about China is that tourists can only stay in regulated hotels. I didn't have this issue previously as I pre-booked my hotel in Shanghai and stayed at an American chain in Beijing. Despite being communist, China is actually every bit as capitalistic as the west (perhaps moreso), so it was with shock that I was turned away from not one, not two, but three hotels after arriving in Chengdu. I contemplated seeking three wise men to help me find room at an inn, but then finally came across a place willing to accept my yuan. I can't remember the name of it, but it was a high-rise and  the interior was dark. Very dark. Perhaps it was to camoflauge an insect infestation or, more likely as I later calculated, it was for privacy, né secrecy. As I finally crawled into bed ready to sleep until the next decade, my potential slumber was interrupted literally every 10 minutes by a phone call or knock on the door asking if I would like a "massage". Yup. Pretty sure I was staying at a brothel. 

But with every sunrise comes a new day. Life is never as bad as you think it is and with every bout of bad luck, a wave of good fortune is soon to wash over. It did for me. Early in the morning, I looked up hotels in Chengdu on the internet and discovered a Crowne Plaza a few kms away. I made my way over to their luxurious high-threadcount sheets and spent the day watching terrible Jennifer Aniston (or was it Kate Hudson?) movies, eating exotic fruit from a basket in my room and taking the longest shower in recorded history. Feeling refreshed gave me a new outlook on my trip - I was only supposed to be in the city for three days, but decided to stay over a week after falling in love with the people, their spicy food and a new friend. He was, after all, the reason I was in Chengdu in the first place and definitely made the adventure worth it: 

 

THE Worst Day of My Life (Part II)

China tends to be a pretty restrained society. This might have something to do with it. So it was thus bizarre that as I was about to board my train to Chengdu I witnessed two employees at an adjacent coffee shop to my terminal having an outright brawl. Fists were flying, headlocks were being utilized to great effect. It was like a live WWE show. Someone approaching sternly bellowed at them to stop and it ended with each employee retracting to their corner of the roughly 8'x5' space; an awkward, long day of making lattés ahead of them. To this day, I still wonder what it was all about. 

As the rush of the previous hour died down, I boarded my train. It was nothing like the Shanghai-to-Beijing route that I previously took, fully modernized to impress the numerous international tourists that frequented it. This train and it's decor looked straight out of 1973: linens stained yellow from all the cigarette smoke being filtered through the interiors, crew members pushing around carts of warm milk and noodles and using the same ladel to distribute both. I made my way to my cabin and met the roommates I would be sharing a relatively intimate space with for the next 30+ hours. While we couldn't verbally communicate, I made use of my English-Mandarin dictionary and attempted elementary conversation with them. I learned that one was a jeweller in the Szechuan province who was very proud of his car (a silver Japanese sports model) and the other was enroute to visiting his family after spending time away seeking work in the capital. Train travel is great for having authentic interaction with locals. By the end of my journey, the jeweller gave me a solid jade buddha for good luck that is one of my most valuable possessions, if only because of back story. 

The day faded into night. The night...remained bright. The florescent lights in my cabin would not turn off. Being on the top bunk, I had one shining in my face all night as I attempted sleep but it wasn't meant to be. On top of lack of slumber, I was starting to feel ill. I don't know if it was all of the smoke or the after-effects of my newfound msg diet, but this train was definitely starting to feel claustrophobic. I left the cabin to explore and soon realized how good I had it; I, at least, had a relatively private cabin. The other areas of the train were packed to the hilt with people barely able to move. I went to the one place where I could truly be alone: the washroom. 

The majority of toilets in China are mere holes in the ground. Train travel is no exception. The balance and aim that one must perfect exponentially increases in difficulty in a moving vehicle and was a feat that the individual who used this receptacle before me had failed miserably at. I rushed to open the window and was met with a greater wall of stench: at that very point in time, we were traveling through the most polluted region of China. The most disgusting, vile, toxic cloud of metallic haze hit me in the face. It was so thick, it left residue on my lips and tongue that I could taste for hours. Over the month I spent in the country, I became used to not seeing a blue sky, however, I could never, ever get used to that level of pollution. It's unreal. After adding my vomit to whatever else was on the floor, I left unashamed. For I was in China and that's how they roll. 

To be continued...

The Worst Day of My Life (Part I)

Sorting through my old archive of China images made me reflect upon one of the worst days of my life. Or 48 hours to be exact. Or to be even more precise it's probably not the worst, as I tend to not publicly reflect on that stuff, but rather the most post-humously humourous time in my life that I would be thankful to be alive. It started innocently enough in Beijing...late check-out at my hotel gave me time to sleep in and watch some forgettble Kate Hudson (or was it Jennifer Aniston?) movie, the only English television I'd watched in a week. I lingered, taking forever to get out of bed as I knew a 30+ hour trainride to Chengdu was the only thing to look forward to in my immediate future. Train rides in China are not pleasant. NOT IN THE SLIGHTEST. Sardines are afforded more comfort. And so I waited, through the end credits, through saying goodbye to the comfortable high-thread count sheet set, till 3:00pm, which gave me 45 minutes to walk across the street to the Beijing Railway Station to catch my ride. 

About that: Beijing Railway Station was where I purchased my ticket for Chengdu. I even bought it at the English-speaking counter so nothing (I hoped) was lost in translation and I didn't inadvertantly get a ticket to Mongolia. I didn't end up there, but as I returned to the station it was more than clear that this wasn't where I was supposed to be. As I handed my ticket over, the railway employee's eyes turned to saucers and she shrieked the universally understood "oh no!", turning away from me and running off into the distance with no further explanation. I stood completely confused until she returned with another employee who told me in broken English that I was at the wrong train station. Fuck. This would have been good information to have when I bought the ticket and before I wasted the day watching terrible chick flicks. The railway employee wrote down the name of the place I needed to be in Chinese and hurried me outside to catch a cab. I waved the paper in the air hoping to catch the eye of someone willing to make a buck. Unfortunately, the person who came to my rescue operated a black market cab. This would cost me dearly and almost cost me my life. 

Careening through rush-hour Beijing traffic was like being in a rocket ship. I swear to God, this guy's van was traveling at the speed of sound, blazing through red lights, swerving past pedestrians while jumping the curb onto the sidewalk. I didn't know which direction I was traveling, but I did know that we "tapped" two bicycle riders en-route. They appeared to be okay though (or so I hoped). In about 20 minutes (and for $200 CDN, which would have been about a $10 ride at most), we made it to the proper train station at the other end of town. But we weren't exactly AT the train station. The driver just stopped in the middle of the freeway and told us to get out. He didn't get a tip. 

A high-speed freeway. Five lanes in each direction, making for ten lanes of Chinese drivers to traverse through. It was one of the scariest moments of my life. There are no rules of the road in China. They will do whatever they have to do to get where they need to go. As a pedestrian, I've learned that one must do the same. Just boldly step forward and hope for the best (this is actually good advice for life too). And so I did. Each step bracing for impact, writing the perfect obituary in my head that would somehow hint at - and perhaps embellish - my desire to become a female Indiana Jones. But I made it. Traffic is organized chaos in Asia and somehow, someway, I made it across the freeway alive and with minutes to spare to catch my train. 

To be continued...

China Gallery Updated

I've been going through all of my old SD cards, reliving travel memories and rediscovering some of the images in my archives. One of my favorite excursions was backpacking throughout China in 2007. I took over 800 images and have updated my online gallery to the best 34 that hopefully give a good sense of time, place and people. 

You can view the updated gallery by clicking here

At the Forbidden City, Beijing: 

Tour buses pack up one of many parking lots at Badaling (Great Wall of China): 

Lost in translation - signage at the Great Wall of China: 

KFC Mr. Lee's Noodle House, Beijing: 

Unless you visit, you cannot fully comprehend how many people live in the major cities of Asia. This scene depicts Saturday afternoon shopping in Chengdu, China, a lesser known city primarily known for it's panda reserve:

Working class resident of Shanghai: 

This is one of my favorite rediscovered images showcasing the modern metropolis of Shanghai: